bramoncada Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 So I was in a rush and i wasnt thinking and just poured my 464 into its container at 185 degrees..anybody ever do this and know the effect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) There are very few hard & fast "rules" to pouring soy-based waxes. There should be no effect in the "burnability" of the wax or its throw (hot & cold). The only difference you may observe is a change in the appearance of the wax - it may have more or less frosting.I was gonna tease you about the miracle of surviving the usual explosion which occurs when people do things differently from others...:laugh2::laugh2:but I decided to be serious.Just chill out and see what effect this has on your candles. Doing things differently from the herd is how we learn. Edited December 2, 2010 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky38351 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 For me it has more frosting on the side but a MUCH smoother top. My customers love this effect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I don't mess with soy that much, but the hotter pour seems to result in a nicer top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAgirl89 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I've noticed that too Eric. The hotter the pour the smoother the tops. I had been pouring at about 145-150, but the last few dozen I've poured at 165-170 and I like the results much better. Be careful when hotter pouring, watch your FO flashpoints. I noticed some of my FOs have flashpoints of 145-160. I try to buy higher flash points (175 and up) but I found a few today with lower than 160. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I've noticed that too Eric. The hotter the pour the smoother the tops. I had been pouring at about 145-150, but the last few dozen I've poured at 165-170 and I like the results much better. Be careful when hotter pouring, watch your FO flashpoints. I noticed some of my FOs have flashpoints of 145-160. I try to buy higher flash points (175 and up) but I found a few today with lower than 160.Your flashpoint doesn't matter after the oil is in wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I've noticed that too Eric. The hotter the pour the smoother the tops. I had been pouring at about 145-150, but the last few dozen I've poured at 165-170 and I like the results much better. Be careful when hotter pouring, watch your FO flashpoints. I noticed some of my FOs have flashpoints of 145-160. I try to buy higher flash points (175 and up) but I found a few today with lower than 160.What do you mean by - watch your FO flashpoints with the hotter pouring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAgirl89 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) What do you mean by - watch your FO flashpoints with the hotter pouring?If pouring hotter, couldn't that burn off the FO and not give the throw when lit, if using a FO with low flashpoint? Edited December 6, 2010 by PAgirl89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 the flashpoint of a FO refers to the temperature the FO would have to be in order to catch fire when coming into contact with a spark or an open flame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewill5 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Your flashpoint doesn't matter after the oil is in wax.Right on. Look at the flashpoint of the wax instead of the FO flashpoint. The FO is a small percent compared to the wax. I pour at 180 or so also for smooth tops because wet spots don't bug me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 If pouring hotter, couldn't that burn off the FO and not give the throw when lit, if using a FO with low flashpoint?This is a common misconception as others have pointed out. People tend to think that FO is terribly fragile and that because of its flashpoint, this necessitates pouring at low temps, etc. Let's think about this...First, new chandlers need to educate themselves about definitions to avoid misconceptions. A quick Google search for the definition of flashpoint states:The flash point of a volatile liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air. Measuring a liquid's flash point requires an ignition source. At the flash point, the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed. The flash point is not to be confused with the autoignition temperature, which does not require an ignition source. The fire point, a higher temperature, is defined as the temperature at which the vapor continues to burn after being ignited. Neither the flash point nor the fire point is related to the temperature of the ignition source or of the burning liquid, which are much higher.It is the temperature at which the vapors of something, in the presence of oxygen will ignite in the presence of a source of ignition. That's 3 things which must be present for flash to occur: vapors, oxygen and a source of ignition. When the FO is mixed into another substance, it is diluted in that other substance, thus the flashpoint changes. The flashpoint of GW 464 (the wax that the OP used) is over 600°F (source). The amount of FO used is a small percentage of that total mixture.Next let's think about what we're making here. The FOs we use are designed to be used in candlemaking applications. The amount of volatile oils lost by heating to higher temps is negligible during the normal pouring process, even at temps of 200°F (palm wax). If an FO isn't "killed" by heating and pouring at temps of 190°-205°F, what would make one think that they would "burn off" by heating soy wax to a mere 185°F? Some paraffin waxes are heated and poured at higher temps than palm wax, and yet the FO is not "burned off" in those candles! If a FO cannot take being heated to 185°F for a few minutes, it's a sorry product that isn't worthy of use in candlemaking!If the throw of a FO was damaged so easily by heating, tarts and melts would not be such a popular item! Tarts lose their fragrance gradually after many sessions of melting and holding at a liquid state (generally 140° and above, depending on the melter) for prolonged periods of time.Folks need to understand that heating to "high" temps (185° - 210°F) is NOT going to significantly damage the hot/cold throw of the FO. Wicking and specific wax properties have far more to do with this than the temp to which the FO is subjected! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDM Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 This is a common misconception as others have pointed out. People tend to think that FO is terribly fragile and that because of its flashpoint, this necessitates pouring at low temps, etc. Let's think about this...First, new chandlers need to educate themselves about definitions to avoid misconceptions. A quick Google search for the definition of flashpoint states:It is the temperature at which the vapors of something, in the presence of oxygen will ignite in the presence of a source of ignition. That's 3 things which must be present for flash to occur: vapors, oxygen and a source of ignition. When the FO is mixed into another substance, it is diluted in that other substance, thus the flashpoint changes. The flashpoint of GW 464 (the wax that the OP used) is over 600°F (source). The amount of FO used is a small percentage of that total mixture.Next let's think about what we're making here. The FOs we use are designed to be used in candlemaking applications. The amount of volatile oils lost by heating to higher temps is negligible during the normal pouring process, even at temps of 200°F (palm wax). If an FO isn't "killed" by heating and pouring at temps of 190°-205°F, what would make one think that they would "burn off" by heating soy wax to a mere 185°F? Some paraffin waxes are heated and poured at higher temps than palm wax, and yet the FO is not "burned off" in those candles! If a FO cannot take being heated to 185°F for a few minutes, it's a sorry product that isn't worthy of use in candlemaking!If the throw of a FO was damaged so easily by heating, tarts and melts would not be such a popular item! Tarts lose their fragrance gradually after many sessions of melting and holding at a liquid state (generally 140° and above, depending on the melter) for prolonged periods of time.Folks need to understand that heating to "high" temps (185° - 210°F) is NOT going to significantly damage the hot/cold throw of the FO. Wicking and specific wax properties have far more to do with this than the temp to which the FO is subjected!Stella,Thanks for providing all the wonderful info! I didn't have the time (or probably patience at the moment lol ) to go into a whole explanation on the subject, but I think what you said about chandlers educating themselves is one of the most important statements you made! I get so upset over seeing posts one day about "I just started testing" and then a week or so later "can you look at my website" or "I'm doing a craft show this weekend". But that's a subject for another thread! :-) Testing and education, 2 key elements to becoming a successful chandler!! Thanks again for the info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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