chuck_35550

The trick is to stay with this wax and learn its qualities. Especially if you live close enough to pick it up and avoid shipping.

I generally don't add anything to my wax. I use 6 to 8% load, depending on the fragrance oil (light florals or heavy bakeries) and prefer a cdn but will use a cd. I heat to 200 degrees in my turkey fryer and pour at 190 degrees into warmed jars that are slow cooled in an insulated box. I don't color as a rule but prefer liquid colorants from AH/RE. A tad of petrolatum helps if the wax seems a little brittle but most of the time there is no need for additives. This wax is not too picky about fos but it seems to do best with ones that have strong oob ct. I get pretty much whatever the oob is like from testers; so I ususally chunk the light fos. HTH Steve

Here are the profiles according to Soapcalc: Sunflower-Palmitic 7, Stearic 4, Oleic 16, Linoleic 70, Linolenic 1, High Oleic Sunflower: Palmitic 3, Stearic 4, Oleic 83, Linoleic 4, Linolenic 1. Oleic acid is an emollient (skin softener) "Oleic acid as its sodium salt is a major component of soap as an emulsifying agent". It is also used as emollient. So High Oleic would have more skin softening qualities but the real value is the difference in the Linoleic (70 versus 4)to me is a real game changer. Nothing smells worse than rancid oil. I prefer to buy my High Oleic in bulk, so it has to be High Oleic. Typically, I rarely exceed 10% in a formula and that has a lot to do with the need for more olive oil qualities in high butter formulations. I use it to balance out the formula and make it more emollient. I have a no olive formula that is quite nice but the tallow and butters need a little help. Does that help CB? Steve

I heat a wick pin and push it through the votive. I've also used the metal probe on a meat thermometer but they are pretty thick. The heated wick pin works best.

I have added a tsp to a tbsp of coconut oil pp of wax and got some improvement but not much. You could try the old trick of putting a drop of fo on the top. It really is a problem with some fragrances and curing doesn't improve the ct in my experience. I have several that won't sell unless the customer happens to smell the candle burning. I think you have to add ct to the list of characteristics necessary for an fo to be a keeper. Sorry. Steve

I started with a votive kit from Cajun Candles. It was J-50 paraffin, 12 molds with wick pins wicks and your choice of fragrances and colors. It was really exciting to make a product that worked on the first attempt. Popped them in a votive holder and was proud as a new dad. Next came jelly jars and then years of research, work and creativity. I guess the point of this post is to start out small and learn your craft from the ground up. Paraffin helps you to understand the general mechanics of a candle system and is helpful for venturing into soy or parasoy waxes. Personally, pure soy wasn't worth the hair pulling but parasoy was my answered prayer. There are so many ways you can jump but the first thing is to locate a good and dependable distributor (preferably close by)that will give you immediate help when needed. Welcome to the forum. This used to be a pretty lively place for discussion, argument, name calling and aha moments. Steve

Not all fragrances are created equal. Blow the doors off floral would be a disaster, as well as a light bakery fragrance. Unless a customer requested an in-your-face throw on say, Gardenia(ack); I would probably go with a light load for a subtle approach. If you want to avoid burning out your nose sensors, I would suggest pouring with an industrial strength respirator. Its a pain but your nose and lungs will thank you for it later. Plus, you'll be better equipped to evaluate your product. HTH Steve

Wipe out with paper towels while still warm and then use no fragrance, no lint Baby Wipes. I still use an old dish towel to make sure there's no lint left. Store in a cupboard so dust and dirt won't get on your stuff.

Your Melt Pool is too deep for my taste and the flame is too large as well. You're going to get one red hot candle toward the end of that burn IMHO. That flame could be burning off some of your fo as well. I pour up my test candle with no wick, make a hole with the probe end of a thermometer and stick a wick in it. If the wick doesn't work, I put it out and let it cool, stick the next size up. Once the wicking seems right, I pour a wicked candle and test the whole burn in 1 to 2 hour burns. The candle should have about 1/4 inch depth on the Melt Pool and the jar should not be hot as the core of the sun. Sooting is going to depend on the amount of vanillin (villain) or other difficult combustibles in the fragrance oil. Distributors are notorious about changing formulas without a heads up, so test often. Steve

I use Avery for all my labeling. Its an older version and it won't print some types of labels but you just have to get creative with it. You can see some of my labeling in a post about Valentines in the soap making section. I get positive comments about the professional look of my labels but mostly its about the label giving adequate information about the ingredients and a description of what to expect. I'm always put off with implausible descriptions like, "It smells like memories" Huh? Make sure you have your card stock or paper in straight. I use the back tray and use settings for quality and high definition paper. I get my label done and then take a snapshot. Hit new and bring up the label and scroll through the snapshots and hit insert. You can print up multiple fragrances on one sheet and have no waste. I use the 2x4 label with card stock and then have a cutter that trims off the excess, punch a hole in the corner and put a ribbon through it and tie around products in cello bags. HTH Steve

Can you really trust anything manufactored in China?

I really am reluctant to place anything in or around a candle that might be flammable. My candles come with a very short cut on the wick and rarely contain embeds on the surface. Its the customer I don't trust KWIM? They don't understand candle mechanics or safety, so you never know what cockamamie idea someone will use on your products, lol. I use glitter on some of my candles and it doesn't cause wick problems, in fact it looks kinda neat pooled in the wax and glittering in the flame light. Aroma Haven/RE offers a glitter you paint on the outside of the jar too (I think). Its just that wax will not suspend anything, stuff just falls to the bottom and its another expense IMHO. Votives are another route to go if you want to have different looks on containers. The market isn't too strong but its a good way to get acquainted with the business. I got a kit from Canjun candles for a small amount of cash and it mushroomed from there. HTH Steve

The principle of the double boiler is quite simple: a container containing the paraffin is placed inside another pan filled with boiling water. Only the pan is placed on the heat source so that there's no risk of overheating the wax. Result: the temperature of the paraffin will never reach higher than the boiling temperature of water, in other words 100°C (212°F). Today's melters use water jackets or direct heat methods where temps are digitally controlled. Some folks are squeamish about using turkey fryers where the heating element is directly exposed in the wax, because there is a fear of overheating and possibly setting the wax on fire. The question of structural integrity being compromised by heating over 200 degrees has never been settled. I heat my wax in a turkey fryer at 200 degrees and have never had a problem. I wouldn't recommend a stove eye unless it has digital controls for precise heating and even then have a digital thermometer in your pour pot. I use an oven probe (long silver cord) with an alarm that goes off if a temp is exceeded. Please have a working fire extinguisher that you know how to operate within reach of your work area. HTH Steve

The op asks could a room spray formula be used as a body spray? I say no and would test the formula on fabrics and just use in genreal to get an overall impression of results. Personally, I don't like witch hazel. If you intend to make up a test batch only, I wouldn't worry about the preservative aspect just yet. Cut the formula down to fill a small spray bottle and not waste a lot of raw material. Remember that essential oils are a whole different approach than fragrance oils but today's mfg usually break the percentages down for the different applications. I wouldn't spray that on my body and not sure about the furniture; maybe into the air at best. Just my opinion. Steve

But its not potpourri. I guess it would be a toilet bowl spray? Those commercials are so funny! One formula uses hand cream for an emulsifier with water, essential oils and coconut oil. DIY uses essential oil, water, alcohol and olive oil. The fragrance oil is going to separate without some form of emulsification. Its a simple idea but genius IMHO and the packaging is very creative. The reviews on Amazon are so funny but they all support that Poo-pourri works to suppress odors. I may give a whirl and test it out at home, lol. Steve

There are several different versions on Youtube. I think you could use any oil based fragrance. Watch and decide what you would like to use. HTH Steve

Thanks CB. So much to do and time is growing short before an all men open house. I'm hoping to move a lot of product. I have to shrink wrap about 20 or so of those heart bath bombs, need to make up about two dozen cupcake bath bombs and have red velvet keep same boxes to fill. Made up some large Libby heart candles (Turkish Delights and Chocolate Coconut Caramel) today and worked on labels. Packaging is so challenging. What fun!

Some Valentine's stuff.

Oh wow, the rose and the raspberry together are so red. The purple (I think its Magical Purple or something like that) is too pretty. Now, if I only my technique were better on swirling.

I mixed equal parts Jungle World, Winter Wonderland, Winter Candy Apple, Rose Jam and Salted Caramel(FB) for a Valentine cp soap. Its very nice IMHO and evenly balanced. Patch goes with anything and the evergreen and apple notes blend nicely with the rose giving the feminine touch of sweetness. However, it accelerated in a 100% gm lye solution and I barely got my heart imbed (column mold from BB) into the mold (Quiet Girl's formula). I was so hacked that it almost went in the garbage but it turned out pretty nice. I blend fos like cooking a stew (little bit of this and a litttle bit of that), lol. Steve

I don't see this fragrance listed on any references on the net. It looks like maybe a french vanilla with ginger and lemongrass. Spice is a wide category but ginger would be typical (I think) for lemongrass in the herbal vein with a sweet vanilla background. The finder doesn't have it and the few references are several years old but that doesn't mean anything. sorry. Steve

Awsesome!I got in my order and can"t wait to soap it. Great soap as always Barbara. Steve

I made a batch of Bunny's Melts and they are so perfect. Wrapping them in silver and gold foils and placing in heart boxes with glitter tops like candy. Did some great heart shaped bath bombs that are so cool and did a rose mold in Ky parasoy then poured 4 oz in a cut glass crystal votive holder and placed the rose on top as the wax cooled (bored a hole through the middle and ran my wick out of the top) and then dusted with glitter. Not sure how I'm going to package them but have been test buring and it is a beaut. It behaves like a pillar and so the whole rose glows from the flame. Lots of fun, if only they will sell. valentines is not a big mover for me. Steve

Southwest Candle Supply This fragrance has a rich, fragrant teak wood scent among notes of soft oriental floral notes with underscores of mossy amber, sandalwood, and acacia. It is a fragrance that has a calm and relaxing feeling.

Indonesian Teakwood is an old fragrance. It is a beautiful fragrance. I first used it from the old Green Leaf company and then from Just By Nature and so on. It is a floral with a woody undertone and it is stout. A little goes a long way in most applications. It is skin safe and I have customers who only buy this fragrance. It's very perfumery but not overwhelming; unless you use too much. HTH Steve