chuck_35550

Last night I added more mp and basically doubled the recipe to 4 pounds. I poured a 5 ounce bottom layer of brown and it behaved just fine. The next layer was fine and then the third layer didn't want to firm up because I poured about 8 oz and it formed that oil slick again. So, I covered everything and tonight I'll warm up that layer and pour the final one before adding the whipped topping and imbeds. It seems like the thin layers behave a lot better for some reason but when I unmolded the first attempt, I noticed that the soap was like a bendable rubber; so I added a teaspoon of Aveeno (collodial oatmeal) to each pound of soap. I put the oatmeal in a small glass bowl and added some liquid and beat it until it looked liked rubber and then incorporated back into the soap. It really dispersed just fine and I think it added a little more texture to the soap. I'll hopefully finish up tonight and then let it sit a couple of days as a loaf (I'm using the 2 pound acrylic mold from Soapers Resource and it unmolds perfecly) and lose some of that moisture. HTH Steve

I agree with Candybee about it being cp. The botanicals are dried IMHO and once they get wet in the bath would soften up and generally make a mess in the tub. Just think about having botanicals stuck in places on your body and think about cleaning up the mess or your drain clogging up. Some people really like that sort of thing and the only ones I've used with success and not a whole lot of mess are calendula petals. I use calendula infused oils to complement the petals as well. Some folks like lavender in their soap and I bought some French soap with lavender buds and they turned brown when they got wet. HTH Steve

Oddly enough, I tried Annie's recipe last night and basically got stopped in my tracks on the first layer pour. The top formed an oil slick about 1/8 th inch deep and I knew better than to try another layer. I plan to add more m&p to the batch and may put a little collodial oatmeal in as well. I used whipping cream instead of goat milk and all I had was a clear base from Columbus. I used the BCN Soapberry dyes (super by the way) and really thought it was going to look great. I had found some acrylic pumpkins, maple leaves and acorns at Big Lots and made silicone molds for topping. They look really great and I intended to whip the soap for the topping and then sprinkle with some glitter and assorted other stuff and place the imbeds. So tonight I'll see if this can be saved, wish me luck. Steve

Wow, very eye-catching. Does that use a lot of ink and will you be placing your ingredients and other information on the back? Congrats! Steve

I like amber to mix with just about anything from chocolate to you name it. It really gives a warm depth without overwhelming the other notes IMHO. I don't get the zuke bread thing and neither do my customers. You ever know these days.

The Tassi is a whole different ball game from other lavenders. True Lavender is amazingly strong and sticks like glue in cp. The Tassi doesn't have that slightly medicinal after bite, its just fresh and natural feeling. True Lavender is a pleasure to soap with no a or d whatsoever. Grab a pound, you won't be sorry. HTH Steve

Their version of Hansel and Gretel's House is decent, Tinsel is a great pom, Apple Jack and Peel is decent, Nutcracker was a good gingerbready type of thing but they don't have very many complex fragrances as a rule IMHO. I suppose that's how they keep their prices so low but sometimes you want something that has a full range od notes to it. KWIM?

Ky Creme Brulee is da bomb. Mix it with Pineapple Supreme, Pumpkin Souffle, almost anything to give depth as a base. It soaps really well and the bars look like chocolate bars but are golden color inside. So yummy.

You can find these in two different sizesaat my wally world. One box has about 20 or so and is in the paint section (it also comes on a roll) The other siz is about half that and its in the student/school supply area. They run about $3.00 to $5.00 depending. They are permanent but will come off your jars with a little scrubbing. I cut up however many will be necessary for the number of jars and attatch to the bottom of the wick assembly. I pull a jar out and wick it by running the wick through the empty barrell of a pen or in my case the barrell that covered a meat thermometer. I use craft sticks with a hole drilled in the middle and place on top of the jar and run my wick through the hole and use one of those black metal clips (clips papers together) and set in the cooling box. I pull those wicks really tight to make sure that I got a good hold on the jar and rarely have one detatch. It sounds like a lot of steps and work but actually its not. HTH Steve

I use double sided 3M squares. Each square cuts into 8 stickers and are 100% reliable and come off with soap and water and a little scraping. They keep the wick assembly (when placed over the bottom hole) from absorbing wax and they are cheap. There are four squares per sheet (32 candles). HTH

I started with the quilted 8 oz jj and used a round label with all the information on the round lid section and then placed the ring over the top to screw it on. Later, I switched to the smooth sided jj and used the cutom lid and labeled the jar. Eventually, ALL my customers requested that I stop using jj because they looked cheap. I went through the Crisa tumblers from Mexico with the pewter lid; until that changed and finally use the 12 oz salsa jar with the gold lid. Straight up and down (not fluted) jj are sometimes difficult to find (made in China) and the whole thing becomes as expensive as other similar jars. I have some country comfort jars in the shop now that will never get used, because they are a hassle to wick and they are too expensive. None of my customers like the plastic fit top lids (too hard to get them off) so the twist top lug has been the best choice. HTH Steve

I wouldn't be embarrassed with that bottom line. Sounds like you're doing just fine for that size of business. The only way you could reduce costs would be to buy in bulk amounts that offer free shipping or co-op with other chandlers in the area. One step at a time is my best advice. HTH Steve

Oooh I would like to have some of the Dried Apple Wreath and already stocked up on the VBN. SS Tassi Lavender beats the True by a mile (I have a pound of that one too).

Lol, no cause I already have the 2 pounds of Sugar cookie Royale coming. I'll be good, I promise. Steve

A pastry shop in Tuscaloosa was making pastries with the script A on them and were threatened by the University of Alabama, because they have a trademark on the scripted A! This shop had been doing business with the university for years and was astounded by the threat. They later apologized but I think they got their point across about the letter A. Steve

Yup 6% is plenty for 6006 and LX works real good in it too. Heavy vanilla/spice combos are always a challenge for any wax. Steve

Uh-oh, I only have a tad left from last year. That was a good seller for me; hope they don't get rid of Tinsel too.

Thanks for the reviews, I've been in brain lock and can't seem to find my way into the shop to work. Uggh, got so much back ordered but these fos are supposed to be highly concentrated and only take half as much as regular fos. Has anyone started with the 1/2 oz pp or 6% to test that out? Was the 8% tough on wicking Lorelei? Steve

Yup. Its not like your trying to get something over on them about the price. They should send you the two bottles for the regular amount IMHO. Steve

Oh, that means mine ought to come today too. I ordered two pounds of the stuff; tell me its as good as everyone said. Steve

Oh my goodness. Its been awhile since I've had an fo that I couldn't stop sniffing. This is the most balanced and yummy pumpkin scent I've ever smelled. I plan on soaping this and some candles too. Have to order a pound of this stuff. Seems like Chris mixes this with something maple? Have to look it up. Steve

Beautiful soap (as usual) so glad you're on the mend. I love Southern Soapers fos. Steve

Try adding 15% soy to 85% 6006. Heat to 190 degrees and add your fo and color and stir for 2-3 minutes and then pour into your room temp container. Leave out in the open and do not insulate. I would advise using cdn wicks on that puppy and start with an 18cdn. I really liked this formulation and it helped with sooting a lot. I decided to stay with my tried and true Clarus 70/30 but this would be my second choice of any other wax. The formula gives you a (roughly) 50/50 parasoy. You have to be very accurate with your fo percentages in this wax and it doesn't work well with heavy fo loads IMHO. HTH Steve

Got in my fos and here's the oob for them: Chocolate Truffle is amazing and complex, Tassi Lavender is just beautiful, Pumpkin Brulee is nice and strong and very yummy, Polar Express burns my nose hairs and boy is it good, Holly Jolly Christmas is very frasier fir and evergreen with some spice (gonna have to get it in some wax), The non-discoloring Cubano Coffee is so strong and complex, the skin-safe Cinnamon reminds me of a fireball with something else in there (gonna have to soap this one). This is encouraging! Steve

I think AH/RE's Ultra Clear Stephenson in the 25 pound block is worth the cost. I ordered somewhere else and am disappointed with the results. HTH Steve