chuck_35550

I think there are instances where its unavoidable to sound like a know it all. I believe there are some soaping procedures that are the best for reliable results but others dismiss this result without even testing it for verification. I've had to develop a pretty thick skin on this and other boards as a result of those prevailing attitudes. At times I have been guilty of the same crime; especially with newbies (even though I myself am still a fledgling). Top usually cuts to the chase and doesn't suffer fools, which makes him difficult to take at times but he is usually on the money and has made apologies when proven wrong. I could say that certain other people have been pretty rough on me for breaking ettiquette rules; especially soapers.

I used to use the powder and made it not quite double the recommended strength and then suspended the milk in a small stainless bowl surrounded with ice cubes and kept the temp below 100 degrees. The soap always left a really silky feeling on the skin. I may have to go back to that recipe. Pretty soap, nice recipe. HTH. Steve

I kinda have to agree with Top's statement (humbly speaking). It's difficult to pick out a book on the topic, much less know which way is up. There doesn't seem to be a lot of current literature available (except with technical/industrial publications) and there are some soap laws that are discounted back and forth on the board. Top has made me re-think my whole approach to soap making by directing my attention to the question of how can I make better soap through understanding the chemistry. This board is the closest thing I have to soaping with another human. What I wouldn't give for a partner in crime (wanted to say grime).

I read through several biodiesel forums and those folks are talking a lot of trial and error chemistry. They seem to be searching for endless ways to recycle fried grease and or other lubricants that are normally tossed away. The whole convo was fascinating and of course totally over my head.

Just ordered the Soap and Other Obsessions book and Essentially Soap by Dr. McDaniel. I got the last Obsessions in stock and found a good used book by Dr. McDaniel for $13.95. Why do these books list for as high as $900.00? I am really tempted to buy a technical book I found for $100.00 (more for industrial soapmaking I think) but these will do for now. I wish one of you guys would write an e book. Thanks a ton Scented! Steve

I've read several soapers who use a 16% linoleic parameter on their fatty acid profile for sensitive skin. The safflower I have has been mixed with vitamin E for longer shelf life. That being said, would it be sufficient to keep the bar stable? It seems that depending on what skin type you are shooting for changes the balance of hard and soft oils. I'm seeing more recipes with a 60/40 balance than 50/50, with the hard oils taking the 60% for most types of soaps. While milk soaps seem to be more 50/50 balanced. Sorry for all the questions. Steve

I downloaded a free Avery label program on my Mac and then I use the blank 8x11 template and draw three lines in medium black. You make your widths as you want and get three labels per sheet (I use a beautiful parchment paper that is green and white). The tricky part is to take a piece and wrap it around your soap and mark where you need to place your logo on top, you ingredients list (I use the side) and any other information on the band. You may have to experiment with some regular printing paper until you get it the way you want it. Once you get things squared away, you merely copy and paste onto the other two bands and save. Its so easy once you get the hang of it. Then, when you need to change ingredients and or soap names; you just copy the whole page and past onto a new one and make your changes and save. If I have time I'll post some pics. HTH. Steve

Thanks for the info. Time for a little more education.

I bet you could find a better deal from a regular candle supplier than from Yaleys. I have found their prices to be inflated and there's no one to help you answer simple questions about what the product is good for. JMO. Steve

Eventually, as the candle burns toward the middle, the container will be warmed enough to melt your corners. Wicking has to be just right to achieve the goal of warming the container but not making it red hot. The choice of container is a huge part of the candle equation. There are a lot of containers that look fun or different but make lousy choices for a candle. Squares, hex or many sided jars are popular but do take more testing and time to get the right combination. HTH. Steve

Yes. It is a micro mesh strainer. It holds loose tea, so it has to be tiny to keep the sediment out of the water. It comes apart easily and you can mold it with your hands to conform to the fitting without tearing it. Its only a couple of bucks. Steve

My decisions are mostly customer driven. The bulk of my customers like bakery scents and only a few like the florals. It sounds like you may be sensitive to the fos and you might consider wearing a mask to cut down on the fumes. If the candles are too strong (that's what you look for in a good fo) then cut back the amount to maybe .75 oz per pound. Right now, you are only pleasing yourself and not customers or others. Take it slow and easy and don't waste your money chasing a lot of different directions. I agree with Top about sticking with the hurricane shells. You could add a votive kit to that and have a great package that will light your shell and fragrance your house. HTH. Steve

Yup. I bought a two part tea strainer at Wally World for a couple of bucks and taped one half to the spout and placed the other half in the pot around the entry to the spout. Those particles settle to the bottom of the candle and look really nasty IMHO. It's too bad they don't make a Presto without the teflon coating. Steve

Is it my imagination that some candle suppliers appear to be having a problem in obtaining certain waxes, jars and or other materials that were once pretty common? I can't imagine that demand has increased, unless unemployed are looking to the craft industry for income. It's really getting difficult to obtain supplies locally and the shipping rates are totally out of reason. Just wondering out loud. Steve

Have you any results yet on your recipe? Steve

What is the best soap making book on the chemistry of soap making? I have several books but they are mostly m&p or rebatch. Steve

I'm getting pretty antsy about it too. Todd said he is expecting a deal with a friend concerning chinese glass and would swap my 16 oz salsa jar for some 12 oz ones. I sure hope they don't go under.

That's just pure poetry Top. I think the grasshopper is finally beginning to understand. I have read some soapmakers who state they know those fatty acid profiles so well that they instinctively use them in combinations that assure a certain soap quality. That's where I want to go with soap making. I couldn't agree with you more on the section concerning soapcalc numbers producing mediocre results. I just need to improve my education in relation to those fatty acids. Thanks. Steve

I've always added my superfat oils after achieving trace. My understanding was that the soaper has more control over the superfat oils not being saponified and therefor having a greater assurance that the qualities of those oils remain intact. I have even read a couple of sites where they discourage putting the oils as a part of the lye calculation because they have no real impact on the actual amount of lye needed to achieve complete saponification. I've always proceeded as you suggested but not sure if that's the way everybody else proceeds or if anybody else uses the other method.

Ok, if the super fat 5% in Soapcalc is for discrepancy from any error of your weighing oils to insure that you don't have left over lye; do you add the oils in your calculation that you intend to superfat and add the percentage to the overall amount (say an ounce of sweet almond and an ounce of avocado) so that you would really be superfatting 7% or something like that? Does this question make sense? Steve

www.thebeersoapcompany.com Check it out. I belong to a soapers group that has sent some great beer recipes. Steve

You said a mouth full. I've been cp soaping for several years now and my earlier, simpler soaps were much better in the way of how well they left your skin feeling. Customers want a hard bar that lasts forever and makes their skin so soft and has lots of bubbles. It seems that no matter which direction I take, those qualities seem polar. Well, thanks for all your honesty and help. I guess the only thing to do is keep trying until it begins to sink into my understanding. You guys have been a lot of help, as usual. Steve

I think the cleansing number needed work and the suds/creamy is still not what I would like (inverted would be better). The sat/unsat balance thing has me afraid to drastically change things. I wish I had the knowledge to manipulate the properties of these oils and weren't so dependent on soapcalc. I get the feeling that a spread sheet would be more helpful but that's beyond my knowledge. Steve

Hmmmm. Barbara that reduces the possible harshness on the cleansing, but it makes me wonder if this recipe is worth trying. What qualities does anyone see in this recipe? I'd like to get off topic and ask you folks what to do with some safflower that I bought. I didn't buy high oleic and the regular doesn't seem to have any purpose. Thanks for the responses. Steve

15% Crisco 15% Coconut 15% PKO 5% Shea Oil 25% Beef Tallow 25% Olive 5% Superfat 2:1 Water/lye ratio Hardness 46 Cleansing 21 Cond. 50 Bubbly 21 Creamy 24 Iodine 58 INS 147