chuck_35550

I use a 70/30 soy/paraffin blend wax. The majority of the time I heat the wax in a turkey fryer to 200 degrees and measure out as much wax as I need into my pour pot. I put the pour pot on a hot plate and place a temp probe into the wax to monitor the temp. I add my fo at 190 degrees and set my timer for 2 minutes. I slowly stir with a non-slotted spoon (careful not to incorporate air bubbles) until the 2 minutes is up and the wax is 185 degrees and then pour into heated and wicked containers and then box up for slow and uniform cooling. I don't color my candles but when I do I add the dye first and stir for 2 minutes and then add the fo and stir for 2 minutes. That's how I do it.

I think you're right about funnel. Those are loaf mold bars and I had heard slab was the better way to go.....obviously not. Wonder how they got such a great pattern?

Is it better to funnel in a loaf or slab mold? I have a kelsei 9 bar mold and I'm thinking of putting the two long dividers in place and then funneling the three separate areas and then put my other spacers in the mold. I want to have a white and red mix to make Crimson Tide soap. Any thoughts guys? Thanks, Steve

I can't attest to the scientific wherewithals of balanced oils but my skin tells me what it likes. It doesn't like certain oils that make it feel oily or dry but it does seem to like almond and avocado for some reason. I usually add these small amounts of oil into the batter just before pouring up into the mold and the soap "appears" to make my skin happy. Listing an oil on the bar is all that is required. Some customers swear my goatsmilk and others by other ingredients but probably it has to do with how that oil interacts with skin type (just guessing). Its not expensive to add an ounce to the final mix and it appeals to the mad scientist in me (I suppose). I could get by on the basics but that's boring and its much more fun to calc a recipe and see what results I can get. Right now I'm totally in love with beef tallow....its all relative.

Does anybody have technical info on this wax?

You may have a couple of things going for you in this project: you don't intend to fragrance your candles with fragrance oil, you don't care about the melt pool (just light), and you don't care about soy. Those elements help to simplify your goal at least a little bit. The one thing you don't want would be a candle that soots like a chimney stack. I would read up and compare paraffin blends and understand that a lot of people still use zinc wicks when using paraffin. Zincs are the coolest burning but tend to be soot producers if they are not the right size for the container and the type of wax you are using. I would keep it simple and not worry about any aspect but safety. Closely inspect those jars for tiny cracks and flakes or chips. Thin glass doesn't hold up well for re-use....oh and above all....watch out for candle making addiction.

You most likely would have to double wick that container but that would double the output of light. Container candles are designed with fragrance output in mind and not much in the way of light production.

Well just for the heck of it. The method I use does not require a waiting period and I have never had one wick come loose in over three years. I won't bother to tell it again but if you are interested....oh never mind.

Permatex® 1372 High Temperature Form-A-Gasket® Sealant Slow setting, non-hardening, high temperature sealant. Especially recommended for heavy-duty applications. Temperature range -65°F to 600°F (-54°C to 315°C) intermittent. Resists common shop fluids. Suggested Applications: Coating and sealing exhaust gaskets, flanges and connections, and other heavy duty applications. sticks your wick.

I am still testing the 6006 and have tested the 4630 and the 4627. I found the wicking to be impossible with the 4630 or the 4627. The 4627 is very messy to work with but does have an incredible ht/ct. The 4630 is easier to work with but soots easily and does not seem to have quite the throw as the 4627. the 6006 has not left a residue in my testing but does break down after burning and looks pretty messy with loss of adhesion(wet spots). I have added palm oil (not wax) and find that this fixes that problem nicely. The ht is not what I would like, even after curing for several days but the wax is extremely easy to wick. Pouring it at 180 into cold jars will get you a perfect looking candle. Ht does not seem to improve with higher percentages of fo. All aside, I like this wax and the burn is very clean. Some people add 15 percent soy to the 6006 for improved wax stability (avoid holes around the wick) and this works quite well too. HTH.

Especially since the formulas are guarded secrets and the mfg doesn't specifically identify all the ingredients in the wax. If waxes were formulated to such perfection, you wouldn't see all of these chandlers constantly trying to improve their product. This discussion is not about additives anyway, it is about understanding how the wax crystalizes next to the glass wall and how it reacts as it cools toward the core. The differences in structure are the cause of loss of adhesion due to the core shrinking because of the differentiation in the structures and the environment in which the candle was created. So this is about using temperature as a way to stabilize the wax with one type of structure and how to maintain it. Does that sound about right to you Stella? By Jove

Oh its not necessarily my wax issues that has me interested in this subject. I just enjoy learning. You never know what arcane piece of information might significantly alter the performance of your product. Thanks, Steve

wow, you guys are way over my head! So you are changing the structure of the wax through temperature and incorporating the fo does not cause that structure to be altered? I use Stasis 3020 (I know Top, its garbage) and these pure soy issues don't apply, but still, it makes me wonder if tempering my wax would cause a more uniform structure that might maximize the blending of the wax and fo? Large companies make slabs of colored/fragrance wax that they extrude into pellet shapes and then pour into a jar around the wick and then heat. So isn't that what we are talking about here? Do you think one of those home devices for tempering might work with wax? Thanks Stella and Top

I believe this is a term that you have used quite often and I was curious as a result. That was the only other source I could find that even remotely used that term....sorry about being inappropriate...just my nature. So? I use a "veggie wax" ? How do you temper the wax?

I was curious as to what "tempering" wax was all about and found this information: Most candle making projects will require the use of wax additives. Certain additives change the temper, clarity, color, and scent of the wax. With this in mind, carefully choose wax and any necessary additives to give your finished candles the best overall burning quality and appearance. So tempering wax means to use additives as a way of changing the melting point?

Good one top.

Oh no! I've learned never to throw anything away in this business. Sooner or later you find yourself wishing you hadn't chunked those jars or whatever. It all comes back around sooner or later. lol.

I put a spigot on my presto and it was pretty simple. That was about 3 years ago and the spigot sitll works without a problem. I don't use it anymore. I have a turkey fryer. Some people use a griddle to place their pour pots on to keep the wax from cooling but I use a hot plate and an oven thermometer to monitor the temp and keep my wax at a constant pour temp. I wouldn't get too fancy and spend too much money until you get the hang of the basics and see whether you want to continue with this craft. I'm sure you've studied the archives and read through the many posts and already know what an expensive and often frustrating business this can be. Good luck and ask questions. HTH. Steve

So don't spray Febreze (at least stick to one fragrance at a time) or use any household cleaners that take your breath away; while lighting multiple candles or you might explode? Does anyone really use a sulphur match to light stuff? Oh yeah, don't spray pesticides on your food when trying to kill flies or other flying insects.

She must charge a whole lot for her candles?

Absolute Tulip BBW Type Fragrance Oil for Candles and Potpourri Clean & crisp, this fragrance captures the aroma of a blend of tulips, peonies, fresh water and green accords. Its natural beauty invokes memories of a sunny spring day! Please Note: This candle fragrance oil is not compatible with soy based or gel candles. It should also not be used in skin care applications. For fragrance oils that are approved for use in skin care applications, visit our Cosmetic Grade Fragrance Oil section. All designer fragrance "type" names are registered trademark names and are the exclusive property of the original manufacturers. Designer fragrance types are NOT the same as the actual name brand fragrances, but exhibit similar notes. From Nature With Love is not connected with these name brands in any way. INCI Nomenclature:FragranceShelf Life:2 Years Crafter Sizes: 1 fl oz., $8.85 8 fl oz., $28.80 16 fl oz., $48.00 Professional/Bulk Sizes: 1 gal., $336.00 *

Absolute oils are extracted from flowers, leaves or bark. The majority of essential oils are produced by the process of steam distillation. Some flowers, however, are too delicate for steam distillation (they get very damaged) and so their oils are more prolifically produced by extraction or enfleurage, as explained below. These oils are called absolute oils (absolutes). An absolute oil should not really be called an essential oil, it is an essence, it has a very high concentration of fragrance and a little goes a long way. An absolute oil is volatile, meaning it evaporates as opposed to a fixed oil which does not. Absolute oils are generally more expensive to buy than steam distilled oils. Production of Absolute Oils The common method used to process absolute oils is a two step process, the first step being one of either solvent extraction or enfleurage and the second step being the addition of alcohol. Step One, Solvent Extraction: The botanicals are placed in drum together with a solvent mixture, usually hexane. The solvent is then allowed to be absorbed into the extract. Vacuum distillation is then applied to remove the solvent, leaving behind a material called a concrete or a resin. OR Step One, Enfleurage: The botanicals are placed upon fats, allowing the fragrance to be absorbed into the fat over the space of a few days. This process is repeated until the fat is saturated with the desired density of fragrance. The resulting fragrant fat is called a pomade. Step Two: The concrete (resin) or pomade is washed with alcohol to extract the aromatic compounds from the pigments and waxes, after which it is distilled to leave behind the pure essence, the absolute oil. There is a now, also, a new method of absolute oil extraction but it is very expensive - through the use of hypercritical carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide under pressure at 33 degrees celcius, becomes hypercritical (meaning it is neither a liquid or a gas). This hypercritical carbon dioxide acts as a solvent which almost instantaneosly extracts the oil and because of the low temperature there is no heat damage to the oil. Due to the expense of this process it is not yet widely used. Storage and Handling Absolute Oils should be stored in dark, air-tight, glass bottles. The oils should be kept away from heat. If care is taken with storage, some absolutes can last for up to 5 years. Both absolute and essential oils should always be handled with care as they can be harmful. If you are not familiar with these oils, be sure to consult with an aromatherapy practioner before using them.

Yes its water. This happens in the manufacture of all waxes. I get frying sounds in 6006, clarus 70/30, you name it. If you've ever fried anything and a drop of water goes in the grease or moisture on the chicken begins to evaporate in the boiling hot grease; you get that sizzling popping sound. Don't worry about it. I have cut open wax and had water flood out of the inside. I panicked and called the supplier, who suggested that I take the wax out of the box and let it dry. They did not offer to replace the wax, because this is a fairly common occurrence.

At the factory, while the wax is being processed, it is poured into slab trays. These trays have a water-filled cooling tube surrounding it. Sometimes these lines break and water may drip into the tray. This does not harm the wax, but you do need to drain it out. If you have melted the wax before noticing the water, the water will always sink to the bottom of your pot. Just don’t pour this small portion of the wax into your candle container. If water does make it into your candle, it will make the wick sputter and pop, and may also create holes inside the candle. That's from Connie's Candles. Its no big whoop. HTH.

A 3" tumbler shouldn't be all that difficult to wick. It would help to know what type of wicks you have on hand (cd, cdn, zinc, eco) but for this paraffin blend I would think a zinc would be your best bet. That's just a shot in the dark without more information. HTH. Steve