Carrie

I the color page comes up, maybe just a link to that.

It says it's down for maintenance... I need a true red. Like coca cola red. Please

Tradewinds is down and I need red. Just plain red. I'm making a Love Spell soap and want to swirl with a true red. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, I just got back to this thread. Yes, everything MissMary said.

I made that shaving soap recipe on about soap. My brother only uses shaving soap and he said the only thing that would have made it better was Sandalwood instead of Bay Rum. As far as the acne soap goes...ProActive is a miracle. At least for my neice and nephew. I don't think they had true acne but they would get at least 40-50 pimples at a time. That went down to about 5-10 with the proactive. As far as acne, it isn't caused by dirty skin and I don't know if it can be affected by topical treatments. You could try some Lavender and tea tree eo's and maybe some french green clay.

Regardless of what wax you use...Always remember, there are two types of measurements, weight and volume. When you make cookies you use volume, cups, teaspoons etc. When you make candles and B&B you use weight, grams, pounds etc. The confusing part is when you need to use ounces. There are fluid ounces and just plain ounces. If you look at a can of Coke, or a bottle of juice, it says 12 fl. oz. Those are fluid ounces and are measured as volume. 12 fl oz of Coke is the same as 12 fl oz of milk is the same as 12 fl oz of gasoline. When it comes to just plain ounces, those are weight. If you weigh one ounce of FO on a scale in a clear containeer, then do the same with milk, water etc, they will all have different volumes. The height of the fluid will be different for each one. Just as one gram or one pound are weights, an ounce is a weight. Forget about measured volumes when working with candles. Just use weight. Watch closely that you realize the difference between fluid ounces and ounces. HTH

You might try asking on the classifieds if anyone has any of those scents. If you get them, then you could discontinue the scent and give clients the option to buy more. I think I have some JS Sandalwood, if I can find it, you pay the shipping and it's yours.

We all need to learn to laugh at ourselves. That line was actually hilariously funny.

I guess I'm lucky, I'm pretty out of the way but there's a shipping station 1/2 block out of the way on my way to work.

I have both and I prefer fedex. Besides, you can get free mailing labels, the one where the label is self stick and the other 1/2 of the page is the receipt. Those labels work for Fedex, USPS and Paypal shipping, just not international.

IMO, why teach them about the importance of wicking correctly, they are 9 and 10. If they want to start making candles it won't be for a few more years and by then they would have forgotten that lesson. I'd get 20 jars and pre-wick them (maybe flowerpot votives). Then I'd pre-measure the wax, FO etc and take it to the house and start it melting. Tell them how complicated it all is with the math involved in figuring percentages etc. That will make them think twice about how easy you've made it. Then pour the candles, let them cool and they can take them home. If the wax is at pouring temp when the kids get there, they should be ready to take home in 1/5 hours.

I would not rebottle a retail product for resale.

He is definately an odd Duck. That might explain the reason he moved to Oregon...LOL

Oregon, I believe. I had a very interesting email conversation with that guy. Very different...

Glad you like it. I learn something new every time I go there.

I use 50/50 non-iodized table salt and fine grain sea salt.

I agree that you understand how to make soap but much of soaping is understanding how it works and why it works. Please, please go read the millersoap.com site. There is tons of helpful info, how's, why's, hints, ideas, safety. You wouldn't use a table saw without understanding how it works, in my opinion, soaping can be just as dangerous. Please take the extra time to learn the basics, not just how to mix it all together.

You said it looked like gel? Does it still look that way? Typically, soap is ready to cut within 12-24 hours. I cut the next day when the soap is back to room temperature. If you use the soap as soon as it comes out of the mold, that is too early. It can continue to saponify for several more days. To me, that indicates that not all of the free lye is used up immediately. I always wait 3-4 days to test a soap. Have you read this site www.millersoap.com I highly recommend it. I tell everyone to read that site 3 times before picking up a bottle of lye.

Super Walmart carries the canned in the baking aisle and Safeway carries it fresh.

You might want to search the archives also. I do remember a thread a long time ago. I can't remember for sure but I don't think it was good soap.

Good for you. I bought it a couple months ago but haven't had much time to learn the program. I'm sure I'll find time this winter.

Read this thread. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49188&highlight=pourette

You're welcome. Oh, wait, were you talking to me or Top? BTW, what are mends?

Again, no one knows the other side of the story. I wouldn't write off a supplier because one person has a problem. We've seen time and again a person post about how terrible a supplier is and then the supplier comes on and tells the other side of the story and it's completely different.

Before you jump on the supplier, you need to know both sides of the story and we don't. Fillmore is a well respected supplier. Countrycandlemaker is a chandler who posted at the biginning of July that she is pretty new to making candles. If I had a newbie candlemaker call me to tell me that the new order of wax was bad I'd definately question the validity of the complaint. Just my two cents.