Carrie

Well, I went ahead and made a new recipe with e's help. I used RBO, lard, coconut, PKO, babassu and castor. I used lavender eo and lavender fields color from MMS. I was kinda in a hurry when I made it and forgot the EO so had to remove it from the mold and add the eo and re-mold. Good thing it was in the Kelsei, any other mold might have been more ugly.

I want to formulate a new recipe but I'm looking to see what everyone's favorite oil is. Just a single most favorite and why. Lard, babassu whatever.

Every candle I've made with a certain suppliers blue liquid dye has turned an ugly greyish tan color. I haven't tried using UV yet, but right now I am staying away from using this blue dye.

When you go to soapcalc, change the batch size to 39.2oz. It is preset at 1lb. If you enter your recipe and calculate 1lb the lye is 2.24 and water 6.08. When you change it to ounces and enter 39.2 the calculation changes to 5.512 lye and just about 15 oz of water. That was the problem. Make sure to change the batch size at sooz.

I tried them. You get 3 tablets for about 4-5 dollars. They didn't soothe my sinuses though. I won't buy them again.

I have a few batches that I made individual soap molds and put some in a log mold. The soaps that didn't gel, in the small molds (clamshells etc), bubble better and are lighter colored and creamier looking. I have a soap that gelled in the center and not all the way to the edges and it is funky looking. It has a dark center and light creamy looking edges. I'd like to not gel at all, but I can't keep the center from gelling and like bunny said, gel it all or nothing.

Only if you want to market it for exfoliating kitchen pipes...LMAO

I think it's WSP. Here are some mica's http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/Product.aspx?Tab=1&CatalogID=2&GroupID=579&CatalogTitle=0&CategoryID=768&CategoryName=Mica+-+Bars WSP says they won't migrate in soap.

A 5% superfat is the normal range for superfatting. When you superfat you are adding more oils than the lye can saponify. 5% is a good number and keeps you away from the 0% dangerous if not exactly accurate. The higher the superfat % the more moisurizing the bar, as there are more oils to leave on your skin. The more oils the more chance that some oils can go rancid and also the more oils the less bubbles and lather. HTH

The c/p of the mms calc won't show up, but go there and plug in chrisr recipe then go to the bottom and change the batch size to 32oz then change it again to 48oz. It is really an eye opener to a beginning soaper. This is where the larger the batch the safer it is. Here is a c/p from the MMS calc with chrisr recipe in it. Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fatLye Amount (oz wt)03.1813.1523.1133.0843.0553.0262.9972.9682.9292.89102.86 As you can see a 0% superfat has 3.18oz of lye in it. 5%, which is the norm, has 3.02oz of lye. There is only .1 difference. On a scale that only measures in .1oz you could have 5% or 3% superfat and never know which. Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fatLye Amount (oz wt)04.6214.5824.5334.4844.4454.3964.3574.3084.2594.21104.16 Now check out a full 2lb batch. There is larger room for error on your lye and still be safe. Now look at a 3lb batch. Lye Table (NaOH) % excess fatLye Amount (oz wt)06.9316.8626.8036.7346.6656.5966.5276.4586.3896.31106.24 The normal 5% is 6.59oz lye. To get 0 superfat you'd have to put in 6.93oz of lye. That is a ton different on a scale from 6.59. The larger the batch the more room for error. If you added just .1oz too much lye on recipe #1 you could be hurt. If you add .1oz extra on the 3lb batch you are still in the 4% superfat range and still very safe. I hope this helps.

I see the compute recipe button. Maybe close the window and open a new one. HTH

I kept looking at chrisr recipe for a 2lb batch and it just kept coming out at 22oz no matter how many times I counted 14+4+4=22. Then I realized that chrisr is including the water and lye in the "2lb". I always thought that the batch size was based on the wieght of the oils, not the weight of the entire batch. To each his own. Also, my .02 on the typing out the lye and water with your recipe. There are too many people that either will not use or can not figure out lye calcs. By giving the information you help to enable these people instead of teach. If we are helping enough to provide a recipe, we should also help enough to ensure they are capable of doing it themselves also. JMHO

LOL brat. I think she meant little kids instead of little crock pots...LOL. Hence the nap time comment.

I've only used cinnamon in shave soap. I've tried ground cinnamon and cinnamon oil.

First of all. You need a scale that is accurate down to .1oz. Does yours say 1/16th oz? If it doesn't go down that far, I wouldn't measure lye with it. sorry Second. Even if you have a good, accurate scale, it isn't a good idea to make less than a 2lb batch. Some experienced soapers make smaller batches but I'm sure they use a scale that weighs in grams instead of ounces. HTH

Well, the uncolored base is beginning to darken just a little. epheme, the base color looks yellow in the pic, but I think it's only because of the black background. It was a basic off-white color. it is slightly darker now, but the pink streaks are starting to ash and it is giving it the most incredible colors. I'll try to take another picture soon.

Isn't there a ton of threads on The Dish about meat shortening? I've seen people rave about it. I looked for it here and couldn't find it so I use lard. I do have someone who's gonna hook me up with some tallow next week. I can't wait.

From what I hear, adding SFIC shaving base to the other SFIC bases will increase your lather or bubbles, can't remember which.

I have some liquid dye for CP, I added 3 drops to about 1/2 cup of traced soap and it turned that color. I don't remember where I got the dye, it doesn't say on the bag it came in and the label only says "for 8oz". I think it is supposed to be mixed with 8oz of water or something I can't remember. LMAO. It seems to work just fine by the drop.

This is a 2lb recipe and it is just perfect. I used 2lbs oil and 12oz water. It is wayyyyyyyy soft. I should have left it in the mold for another day, oh well.

Adding oils to M&P may add moisurizing qualities but unless you add lye to those oils you will not get suds, bubbles or lather. Sorry chica

Sodium Lactate. I haven't tried it yet but it is supposed to make a very hard bar. I'll send one to Trish. I have to, the two of you turned me on to this FO and I love it.

I soaped SNC Strawberry Musk yesterday before the game. This is the first time my swirl has gone all the way through. WooHoo I kinda messed up some of the bars gettin them out of my brand new Kelsei mold (I love this thing) I was going to add SL and then forgot. I added full water and it is really soft. I have no idea why the second picture won't resize. Sorry it's so huge. Anyway here are the pics. And out of the mold.

You attempted color on your first soap? I don't think it looks bad at all. That is a hell of a job for your first bar. BTW, I unmolded that strawberry musk today. OMG. I'll post pics soon.

You are correct. :smiley2: