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Carrie

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Everything posted by Carrie

  1. Which preservative you use is based on your recipe. Go to your favorite suppliers sites and look for usually lotion supplies. You'll find phenonip, liquapar, germaben etc. Read each one and decide which best suites your needs.
  2. Personally, I'd measure out each ingredient and then weigh it. Add all of the weights together and add the appropriate amount of preservative. 1/2 cup of M&P may be 4oz by volume, but I'll guarantee it isn't 4oz by weight. The preservative manufacturers recommend percentages based on weight, not volume. Play it safe and weigh all ingredients.
  3. It really makes no difference does it? If I make a sucky balm then I guess the base would be better. If soaperxyz makes a great balm it would be better. I suggest you make some and decide for yourself.
  4. Scent Cellar was talking about fluid ounces. The weight will be exactly the same melted as hard. 1 lb weight of paraffin will be 20 fluid oz when melted.
  5. My first thought was to pour cooler. I've noticed that there is less shrinkage in my wax when I pour cooler. I always get 8 votives out of 1lb of wax.
  6. I did a quick search using the word blank, for air freshener blank, and there was an entire page of threads on this board. Try it, you'll get tons of info. Click on search up on the blue bar up above, then type blank you will find your answers right there.
  7. Scent Cellar, This is the reference I use. It is from the MMS Site. INCI: Isopropyl Myristate Saponification Value: 208 mg KOH / g of Fat This wonderful additive is used to reduce the greasy feeling in lotions and creams. IPM can also be used in lip balms and lotion bars. In lotions this product is considered a dry effect emollient to the skin. This product can be used up to 10%. Here are some beginning recommendations for your products: Lotions: 1 to 3% Creams: 3 to 6% Butters & Lotion Bars: 4-10% Massage Oils: 4-8% Lip Balm:1-5% Please remember that these are general percentages to allow you to make a test batch. Your preferences may require higher or lower rates. Just test away I usually go with 10%.
  8. Linny is very right. I use just a dab and it works for both hands. A blob smaller than my pinky fingernail will work for both hands. My mom gets about a nickle size blob and then complains that it's too greasy. Also, when putting shea on your hands, try to put it on the back of your hand and rub it in with your hands back to back. The palm of your hand needs very little moisturizer and it will make you feel really greasy when your palms and fingers are greasy. I make whipped shea and I actually use Dry-flo and IPM.
  9. This will help, but there are still too many choices...LOL http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3164
  10. When I started to really get interested in soap making, I read everything on the old board regarding soap. I looked at every recipe, every post in the bath and body section and looked at everything in the gallery. It took a few weeks to finish that, then I went to the Miller Soap site and read that a few times. I read and re-read Robin's tutorial so many time I could see it like a movie in my head. By the time I actually made soap I was so prepared. I say read, read, read. Then read some more. Just about every question has been answered in the old board archives. Good reading.
  11. This one. http://www.containerandpackaging.com/item.asp?item=M008W2
  12. Some people wipe things down with a dryer sheet first to avoid some of the static. You might try that. Static tends to be worse in the winter months.
  13. LOL, you wanted to save yourself 15 minutes with the lip balm. Isn't that the way it always is. Hope it all works out. Maybe it'll be great.
  14. Follow the link up above to the MMS site. Look for the post that says that there are directions on the mms site and a link.
  15. Which lip balm is it. I have a couple of them, the shea and the mango. The shea would be waaaayyyy too soft IMO. The mango might be ok. Take some out and spread it on your arms. See if you like it.
  16. I use 6228 and 6% fo for my 1oz tarts. I melt mine at work and usually get at least 2 eight hour shifts out of them.
  17. Stephanie, You have a ton of research ahead of you before you start to use eo's. They are all great and natural, but the other side of that natural part is they can be quite dangerous. Every EO that you use must be researched for it's benefits and it's dangers. Some eo's can be used by pregnant women, others cannot. Some on children other not. I personally can't use star anise eo because it is bad for women with certain medical conditions. Please, please do your research before you begin to use eo's. You won't be sorry.
  18. I think they are great. I made a dragon's blood soap and it didn't discolor hardly at all. It is tan colored. Where did you get your dragon's blood?
  19. Have you tried looking for the book at the library of congress online. Most if not all of that info should be there. Here's the link. http://catalog.loc.gov/cgi-bin/Pwebrecon.cgi?DB=local&PAGE=First HTH
  20. LOL Val, FO's are fluid but use them by wieght so they are measured in ounces. Fluid ounces are measured by volume. You would measure 8 fluid ounces in a measuring cup. Just remember. Fluid ounces are volume. Ounces are weight. Try this. Weigh 8oz of milk then 8oz of water. They are different. We almost always only use weight in candles and B&B. Sometimes you'll see, for example, 1 teaspoon of oatmeal, or 1 teaspoon of FO but mostly it will be in ounces or grams (weight). They should have come up with different words for each. HTH
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