NattyCat

Does this go for bath bombs, bath melts, lip balms and lotion bars etc too? Or just soap?

Anjie,x.

Yes, it's bath bombs, lip balm, shampoo, body lotion, body scrub, bath salts, soap, shower gel, bubble bath - absolutely ANYTHING you apply to the skin or use as a skin or hair cleanser - you are not even allowed to sell bath salts that have nothing on them - ie no dye or scent, because your salts need to be tested as safe!

Nat

jeez louise' date=' thanks nat, i didnt realise it was that involved. Glad i didn't win now lol.

Yep, I'm hoping to sell some candles in the near future, so getting packaging ready, think i've figured out the bag size lol.

I'm concentrating on testing one type of candle at a time at the mo[/quote']

yep - it's that involved - you should see the document you have to prepare for each recipe - 5 pages long with words so complicated you'd think they were arabic.

HI Wick

Soap making is fun, but before you get all excited at the thought of selling them, please be aware that you are not legally allowed to sell soap in this country unless they are fully certified. Even if you get certified base, certified scent and certified dye - the minute you combine those 3 elements, the end product is no longer certified - and that will be £60 per recipe. So if you wanted to make strawberry soap with poppy seeds, or strawberry soap with rose petals - that's £120. Every time you change the recipe or add the tiniest thing, you need to have that recipe certified, so having a range of soap of say, 10 fragrances will cost a minimum of £600 to certify - not including the costs of the actual raw materials. Not only this, there are hundreds of soap sellers on ebay, so you will be in an even more competitive market than candles - and if you should try to sell without certification, you risk a £10,000 fine.

Making it for yourself is fabulous - but I'm guessing that if you are looking to buy 17kgs of base, you want to sell it. I'm afraid that is going to cost you enormously - and all the hand-made soap sellers in the UK will not hesitate to dob you in to the authorities for selling uncertified soap as it is rampant. I have had so many "requests for certification" from the authorities based upon "following up concerns made by an individual" - luckily all my soap is fully certified so I have no issues.

Don't waste your money on soap when your skills as a candlemaker are so new - I noticed you were already asking about votive packaging so it seems you're wanting to sell pretty soon - i'd concentrate on that before branching out - it's best to take your time and get it right than to rush and potentially cause injuries or damage. I'd also start looking for your insurance now - it's about £100 a year but if you don't have it, you are liable for enormous lawsuits should anything go wrong with one of your candles - whether it's your fault or not.

one of the mistakes I made when first making candles seems to be the same mistake that you are making - and that is trying to size the wick based upon the melt pool at the top of the candle. One of the things you need to know is that the top of the flame is hotter than the base of the flame, so the further down the candle burns, the more wax around the top it will consume.

So if you don't get a full meltpool at the first hour or so -don't despair - keep burning and the top of the candle will catch up and fold in on itself once the heat of the top of the flame reaches it if you have used the correct wick. Those wicks you've used are seriously huge for this muffin candle - i have the same mould and I only use a single wick which is much smaller than those you have used. Don't be scared to use a wick that you think may be a little small - it's easier to wick up by yanking out the old wick and replacing with a new one whilst the candle is still viable. If you've flame-thrown it with a huge wick and want to wick down...that's gonna be harder!

Good luck!

Nat

thanks folks' date='

right one last experiment, just cos I want too before I turn it all into melts........

I'm going to add some stearic to the 50/50 parasoy mix

lets have a butchers, see what happens

I'm gonna pour at 140[/quote']

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this like the FIRST couple of candles you've poured with PB? I reckon Michaelangelo painted a few duffers before he created a masterpiece!

You can't expect to turn out the perfect candle first time, especially with soy. Why don't you try a single colour pillar and perfect that, and then perhaps do TWO layers and pefect that. Trying to pour loads of layers is just asking for trouble as you have to make sure you have the temperatures perfect, and I know already that you're having a hard time trying to figure out correct pouring temps.

I'm not trying to preach but you have been SO busy lately creating candle after candle in tons of different styles - pillars, votives, pies etc and at this rate you'll be a Jack of all Trades, but Master of None!

I have probably thrown away 100 kgs of wax in my time through pillars and container candles that just don't turn out right. I didn't give up, I just kept on tweaking till it came out right. There are candle makers on here who have been doing it for YEARS who still turn out a duff candle now and then. Seeing as you've only been doing this a few weeks, don't be disheartened if your first few candles using a wax you're not used to end up looking awful - it's supposed to happen like that - it's all part of the learning process.

If that were my candle, I wouldn't see it as a waste or a failure, I would see it as a wick testing tool - for fugly candles, you can burn them yourself and test different wicks to find the best burn!

Don't give up - ecosoya pb IS harder to work with than paraffin, but if you take your time and don't try to run before you can walk, you'll turn out a great candle sooner or later.

Nat

I agree up until a point. If however like myself you only have a small budget the cost of getting moulds etc shipped over from the US is too expensive. I would rather by from a UK supplier (who will be a bit more expensive than the US) but wouldn't have nearly the same amount of carriage costs.

Lisa

what you save in postage costs is loaded on as profit for the person who imported it. If you can afford to buy 2 or 3 moulds, then the cheaper it gets to buy yourself from the USA. You don't even need to be buying 10 or 20 moulds, just perhaps 3 to 5?

Anyway, as I said - it's a good option for smaller candle makers, but why would they shop anywhere new when the people I mention previously stock them at a good price already?

as a candle maker running a business in the UK - if I want moulds, I'll buy them from the USA myself as they are light, cheap and easy to buy with no customs fees. There are several people already bringing in metal moulds, like sensory P, 4candles, stillturning etc. Then there is fullmoons, candelights and others who cover the market for polycarbonate moulds.

With moulds, once you have one, you have one. It doesn't run out, it doesn't wear out, and doesn't need replacing unless you damage it. Candle makers in the UK can afford to get them from the USA themselves, as they are light and cheap and because they are not a high value item, you will rarely get charged customs on them when bringing them in for yourself. However, YOU would be charged customs as you will be bringing in larger quantities - and that customs fee will need to be loaded onto the price of the moulds.

I don't think selling metal moulds in the UK is going to make you a millionaire, or even provide you with a living but I could be wrong.

Hi Fredron' date='

yep the scales do switch between gm and oz.

My confusion is my wax I buy in kg, so the moulds I've figured some (not all) so far in gms (how much wax), but because fo needs to be 1oz to 1lb, I was trying to convert everything to lbs and oz's.

It would seem easier if the amounts of wax needed were in oz's then I can figure the fo in oz too.

Oh god I have a headache lol[/quote']

1 Kilo = 2lbs wax (and a little bit, ie 2oz)

2lbs of wax is 32 ounces. This requires 2oz of FO

1lb of wax is 16oz. This requires 1oz of FO

half a pound of wax is 8oz. This requires 1/2 oz of FO.

on 4candles, they have an extra large tab - there are no pre-tabbed wicks, these are sold on their own.

can't it just be "Mary's Garden" ? I don't think you need "of luxuries" at all, seeing as the picture is of a bath tub, so people will know straight away they're not on a gardening site?

thanks for the tip nat

I did wonder how self-centring wick tabs' date=' self-centred. Now I know its not a remote controlled homing device on the bottom of each tab lol

I guess to buy them you need to know the diameter of your votive moulds.

Does anyone use pre-tabbed wicks for pillars? Are they done that way at all?

Seems a lot easier, especially with testing, stick a pin in, set it, pull it out, in goes the wick and bobs your aunties grocer [/quote']

most aluminium votive moulds are the same size. the large wick tabs from 4candles SUCK. they're so thin and rubbish - so don't bother with those.

http://www.glassware4gellin.com/rocks.html

that's almost right - i wish the pic was bigger and they gave the size! will have to contact them.

No, I don't know about those, but would a lid for a tub of margarine or can of Pringles (not sure if you have those in the UK!) with a hole poked through them work?

My container wax is usually low enough that the trimmed wick isn't touched by something laying flat on top of it, so I put a cookie sheet or piece of cardboard over containers.

wouldn't work really - it's a $40 candle so a pringle lid wouldn't be the right move.

Thanks!

Hi All

Does anyone know where to get those plastic discs that you put over tumbler candles to keep the dust out? They have a hole in the middle for the wick to poke through....

Thanks, Nat

always best to do a repour on votive so you get a smooth top and not one that's all caved in.

Wait for the edges to start setting - because if the edges are setting, that means there is a thin layer of wax setting on the bottom too - so when you put your wick into the wax (the bit in the middle that hasn't set yet - so how could you make a hole??) it will stick to the wax at the base of the mould.

Personally, I use self centering wick tabs - they are tabs that are the same size as the base of the votive mould - so I know my wicks are always centered.

I hate votive wick pins. When you remove them, more often that not it leaves a ragged edge that isn't pretty.

just pour your votive, wait for it to start setting round the outside and then add your wick. The secret is to not add the wick whilst the wax is too hot - otherwise it will melt the wax around the wick and make it flop over.

You don't need to worry too much about the wick being off centre by too much on the first pour, as when it has shrunk - you can wiggle the wick into place before you do the top up.

oh wow' date=' Nat they are beautifully presented. Can I ask, you know the embellishments around the candles, do they have to come off before burning?

I have some little charms that I thought about adding to mine, but wondered whether folk would realise to take them off.

Whats polypro? is that suitable then? although I like the crinkle of cello [/quote']

the candle can be burnt halfway down before the embellishment needs to be removed - and I tell my customers that in LARGE lettering in the card!

would you consider that tested? Someone at hubbys work wants 2 making. Of course I'm completely out of strawberry FO now' date=' typical.

I'm so nervous of thinking about selling, eek[/quote']

no, it's not fully tested until you get to the bottom of the tin. And then, that's only THAT scent, colour and wax combination tested. If you want to pour a tin in yellow that smells of pineapple - you need to test again because a wick that burns pink strawberry scented wax, may not be the right wick to burn yellow pineapple wax - it's all to do with the consistency of the oils etc.

Nat

I do them myself. bog standard inkjet printed at highest quality print setting.

i've been trying to get some cello bags' date=' but can't figure out the sizes of the gusset

Mainly for pillars with a raffia tie.

that sounds good what Nat said Girlyracer, if they are just for posting in [/quote']

the gusset is pretty much the same size - it's the length of the bag that's more important, but to be honest, gusset bags are a pain in the butt for wrapping pillars - plain cellophane on a roll is much neater because you just roll the candle in cello, cut the base in several places, fold flat and tape down, then gather the tops and tie off. Here's some of mine:

if you wrap in cello and raffia, that's fine. you then wrap them in 3 or 4 layers of bubble to post them, and fill the box with polystyrene peanuts.

They'll see your lovely packaging once the bubble comes off.

Well, the exact words on the warning are:

"The Sensible Aroma Warmer is designed to only warm candles which are manufacturered in jars, with wax other than the vegetable based wax, or to be used with Sensible Aroma Fragrance Discs"

and then later it says:

WARNING: Using vegetable-based wax candles on the warmer is likely to cause the candle to explode.

Only use warmer with jar candles that are in the original glass container or jar purchased from manufactuer. Do not use with homemade or hand poured candles or candles that are not in a glass container or jar. Never refill candle jar

It also says later "Cease using jar candle when only 1/2" of wax remains in the candle jar" What???????????? the wax doesn't evaporate on a warmer does it???

So you can ONLY use this warmer with mass produced factory candles that are so shit they evaporate and come in a lead-lined jar????

Hi guys

I've found a place where they do clear plastic display boxes

http://www.bagnboxman.co.uk/catalogue/page24_clear-boxes.php

They look to be reasonably priced by UK standards. I'm thinking of using them for my glass tumblers. Thing is in the description it says that they are made from PVC.

Would they suck out the scent?

I plan on making my candles to order, so they would be in the boxes just while they are being posted.

Are they suitable or do I need to look for maybe acetate boxes. Are they better?

Any advice, pleeease :smiley2:

Ruby

These may be too flimsy to hold a tumbler candle - especially if the base is folded - your candle will either drop out the bottom or the whole box will bulge and distort with the weight of the candle.

doesn't say it ANYWHERE on the outer packaging, only on the inner leaflet and it says it TWICE to make sure you don't use natural wax candles. Can't see why???

I have a "Sensible Aroma" jar candle warmer, and having read the instructions, it says that Natural Wax candles are NOT to be used on the warmer otherwise the candle jar is likely to explode?

What's up with that? Is that true?

Of course, I've got a soy container warming on it right now, and religously keeping an eye on it for the temperature, because I'm pig-headed like that - but hey - why would soy jars explode???

Nat