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rebeccajo99

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Posts posted by rebeccajo99

  1. Thanks

    I did add 1 T of beeswax to this (per pound). So maybe I need a little more with the additives that I added. hmmm... things to think about.

    I wil also start testing the bars that I made even though they are soft. I cut the soap into 8 small bars for testing.

  2. I made my first batch of melt and pour yesterday. At first I didn't like the scent, but now that I keep walking by and sniffing it... it is growing on me. I scented it baby powder...thought that sounded like a good soap scent.

    However, it is still really soft. It is in bars, took it out of the mold about 6 hours after pouring and cut it. It is sitting on a drying rack right now.

    So my question is... how long should I wait to start testing it and how long until it gets hard.

    Thanks

  3. Thanks everybody for thier suggestions. I used a glad ware container this time. Don't like how it demolded and how it looks cut. (plus, the word glad was molded into the soap :laugh2:) Will work for tester bars right now, but defently have to find something different for marketable bars.

    How long should i let them dry before starting to test them? I don't think I got the bees wax mixed in good :sad2: We will see when I start testing them

  4. So, I want to try making some soap this afternoon while my boys are napping, but I did not get a chance to run to the craft store to get a mold this morning. Is there something that I can use that I may have laying around the house???

    Thanks

  5. I just tried a little chunk of it and my hands do not feel dry like with my store bought soap!!! I have not even added anything to it yet. My order of shea butter and beeswax should be here this evening. Going to make my first bars sometime this week (before I leave for the holiday weekend).

    I just love the idea how it makes my hands feel without additives since I was thinking about just doing color, fo and beeswax when/if I ever start making the fun shaped soaps (like animals and stuff)

    Any suggestions on where to buy colorant. I was going to start dye free and then add color later. Of all the video's I watched on colors, I'm thinking about starting with either oxides or aquamarines. Eventually want to experiment with mica's since those seem to have a little bit of a shimmer to them.

  6. my order came yesterday. I am SOOOOO excited. I am going to cut a small piece off to try it this afternoon without doing anything to it. Then it is going to be tested away!!! (as long as I like it)

    My aunt just asked me today if I want to join her at the open house that she does every year (she makes jewlery). It is in December... That gives me 3 months to get it tested/perfected. I told her that I don't know if I will have everything ready by then. Do you even think it is possible?

  7. I just hit the send order on my soap products. Got the base from Essentials from Catalina and Shea butter and bees wax from Bitter creek. Once the order gets here (or maybe this weekend) I will run and get the goats milk and dr. bronners from the health food store and run to the craft store to get a mold.

    I'm actually really excited to get the stuff. I even have some left ofter soap that I got from a craft show earlier this year that I am going to haul out and use. These were supposed to be gift, but ended up not needing them. Now I will have something to compare too. Thanks everybody for your help through my research stage. Hopefully not too many questions once I start making it.:yay:

  8. are you talking about doing business under your name... for example

    Jane Doe DBA ABC candle company???

    I did not even consider doing that because I wanted everything out of my name. I currently have just an LLC, but plan to put a DBA under my LLC once I actually start selling. I just quickly did the LLC to get all the stuff out of my name when I started giving out testers.

    As for tax stuff, I have a business degree, so I learned a lot of it at school. The stuff that I don't know, I ask my aunt who is an accountant. Your best bet on tax stuff... call an accountant. They will know what you need to do for your state.

  9. I just heard from them... they say the send the ingrediant list when you place your order. Didn't want to purchase some without being about to properly label my product. Now it is time to break down and buy some here shortly. Have some last preping/research to do first. :yay:

    Need to get a pyrex measuring cup and some molds- thinking about just getting those from my local craft store to start.

    Another quick question... when you melt down all the additives, do you melt that seporatly from the soap or all in the same bowl at the same time? (not the colorant and fo, just the shea butter, bees wax and goats milk)

  10. I haven't tried their clear base yet but I need to get some. I have a sample of the base from WSP but for the clear I'll probably go with whichever is cheaper with shipping. I don't know why you'd have to have the same brand for both clear and white.

    quote]

    According to the video's that I watched, they say to use the bases from the same brand because not all soap base is made the same. Therefore they desolve at different rates making your layers pop apart if different brands are used.

    Another company I started looking at is WSP since they have both a natural clear and white base. However, when I read forums on here, sounds like they are a lot softer base. I know I need to make a decision soon, almost out of body wash:laugh2:

  11. Thanks for your imput. What about the clear base, is that just as good as what I am hearing about the white base? I eventually want to make decoritive soaps, and all my video's and research says to make sure you use the white and clear base from the same brand.

    I just sent them another e-mail asking about ingrediants for lables. I noticed that they did not have thiers listed on the site (either that or I'm missing it)

  12. Thanks for all of the helpful information. I have candy thermometer that I use for candles. I know it may be a stupid question, but do you think that it could also be used for the soap? Or should I buy a new one?

    I'm debating on what to do now. I just received an e-mail back from Essentials by Catalina and thier sample size is about 8 oz. I wanted at least 5 lbs to determine if I wanted to continue using them or not... So in order to get 5 lbs, it will cost me $25 plus shipping. I can buy 20 lbs of it for $60 (includes shipping). What to do... What to do...

  13. I bought the liquid unscented Pure Castile soap from Dr. Bonners. It didn't seem to have any positive sudsy effects on my soap so I quit using it.

    Your best bet is to try out different M&P bases and from different suppliers. That way you can find which bases are the best for your applications.

    I would cut off a piece of the M&P and use it first to wash with before melting it and definitely before starting to make any soap recipes using additives. You want to know how your base base works without additives. Then you can experiment with different additives so you know which ones work or don't work for you.

    Thanks for the advice Candybee. Did not think about trying a piece of it before melting it. I will do that first. What is the best method for melting the soap. All the videos that I have been watching is using the microwave... is that was everybody does?

  14. I have no clue on how much to use. I have not even ordered my first supplies yet, so I am not the best one to ask. I have just been doing research yet. My research is finding 1 to 2 tsp per pound. The best suggestion I have, which I will be doing, is just playing around with formulations until I find on that works and I like. One thing that I learned from candle making which I am sure applies to soap making as well... is Test, Test Test and when you think you have it right test it again. :laugh2:

    Like Priarie said, have fun. I'm looking forward to this new adventure.

  15. Buy the Dr. Bronners.. you'll love it and you'll probably need it!

    And UP the goat milk! :) 2 or 3 T isn't too much!! Trust me, you'll love it! I use fresh goat milk mostly, but when that's not available the powder is fine.. the liquid will definitely mix better though! Buy the concentrated, and don't dilute it!

    You're picking a SUPERB base! Essentials by Catalina is the best in my book!

    Have fun! :)

    Thanks for your imput. I will up the goat milk and get the dr. bronners as well. I will have to look to see if the health store sells concentrate milk. It was hard to tell from their website.

    I was getting the impression that the Essentials by Catalina was going to be a good base from what I was reading on the forum. I went to thier website and got disappointed that they were in CA and I live in MI. I thought shipping was going to kill me on it. I then moseied around the site a little more and noticed that they did flat rate shipping just for people like me!!! I still priced checked a bunch of other places for base and Essentials beat them because of the shipping. My neighbor is getting excited that I am going to be doing soaps again, she really wants me to make one for her bathroom. So, after I get this recipie down the way I want it, I'll be starting to play with colors and swirls to get the one she wants. :yay:

    I know I have to get insurance first before giving them out for testing. I have my insurance for candles, hopefully it doesn't add to much to add the soap to it :)

  16. Thanks everybody. I am kindof nervous and excited at the same time. My first bars I am thinking about doing this. Let me know what you think.

    1 lb White soap base from - Essentials by Catalina

    1 T Shea Butter- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

    1 T Goat Milk- Can get from my local health food store. Still debating between powder or liquid. Leaning towards powder so I can make it a little thicker if I want.

    1 T beeswax- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

    1/2 oz of FO. Have not determined which one yet, but was going to see what ones I have for my candles that are skin safe and try one of those.

    I did read that if bubbles are compromised from your additives that you can add Dr. Bronners or Glyseran. I can get both from my local health food store. Any suggestion on what would be better? I was not going to purchase it until I test the first recipie to see if I need to add it.

  17. Thanks for your imput. I think that is where I think I am going to purchase it from. They carry my jar size that I use and some that I want to try later. They also carry the Palm wax that I eventually want to try as well.

    They carry a CD wick that they say is like the heinz wicks, but I don't know if I want to change suppliers of those.

    So, because of that, I think I am going to buy from them so I have multiple things that I can purchase from them.

  18. I feel dumb.... I just found my answer :embarasse I swear, everytime I read through these forums I find new information.

    I almost have my recipe put together and where I want to buy all my supplies. I'm getting excited.

  19. I have been doing a lot of reading and I'm just not finding what I'm looking for.

    I was wondering if you can add both goat milk and shea butter to the same bar of soap??? It seems logical to me, but then again, I'm new and have a lot to learn yet.

    I always see shea butter soaps and goat milk soap, but never a shea butter goat milk soap.

    Thanks in advance

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