Jump to content

rebeccajo99

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    757
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rebeccajo99

  1. Where do you all buy your USA. I have been searching on here, but not finding what I am looking for. (probably user error) and serching on google. I found a couple of suppliers, but would like to do more price shopping before I purchase.

    I decided it was time to break down and buy some.

    Thanks

  2. Hi rebeccajo!

    I'm not familiar with the laws in your state, but I'm reasonably certain that you don't have to have your products tested by the state before you can sell them. Do you know where I can find this information for sure. I tried to do a google search, but could not find anything

    Olive oil is a good thing to use to give your soap a little hardening quality, but in my opinion, a little beeswax goes further, and would be a great natural additive for your natural soap. It IS hard to melt, but it really works well. If you do get olive oil, it's not necessary to buy Extra Virgin... any olive oil will be just fine. I'm willing to try a little beeswax. I found the additive forum you mentioned and it said 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons per pound of base depending on what you add. How would I know if I added to much? Also, do you melt the beeswax before putting it in to make sure it is completly melted?

    I'm always one to suggest buying white base and add your additives. I think you get better quality, and probably more of the good stuff when you add your own! But that's just me. I was leaning toward the white base instead of the pre-made stuff. I also found a clear base, so now my brain is really going. If I use a clear base and add the shea butter, will that make it white or will it still have a clearish color to it. In the additive site it also said about 2 tablespoons per lb of base. That seems so little, how do I know if I added too little or too much?

    There is a really good additive thread in this section that should give you some fantastic ideas for other additives to make your soap even more fabulous! Be sure to read up on that and there's always someone around to answer questions if you have them.

    Have fun! :)

    Couple of more questions I came up with. (sorry, want to make sure I do this right)

    I was looking at and watching some video's on soap making. One of the video's that I watched was on wholesale supplies plus. It talked about an aquamarine coloring. I could not find it on their website for sale. Is that a good coloring method or is there a better one (in your opionion obviously). I liked how they mentioned the clear will have a bright color and white bases will give it a pastel color and will not bleed between layers. I also liked that it was natural.

    Lastly, testing. I'm sure soap testing is just like candle testing... test, test and test some more. What are the things that I should all test for.

    How long the bar lasts

    How strong is the scent

    Does the coloring turn the bubbles color or keep them white

    Does it moisturize the skin or dry it out

    Does it leave a film on the skin

    Anything I'm missing???

    I am almost out of body wash, so I thought now would be a good time to start playing around with it since I obviously have to take a shower:laugh2:

  3. I am thinking about buying some M&P base and give it a try (somebody told me that I didn't need to get my products tested by the state before selling- bad person :laugh2:). I just started reading yesterday, but have done quite a bit in the past. I decided to start with M&P because of my 2 small boys that I don't want the lye in my house just yet and it seems like you can make cool decoritive soaps with M&P

    However, I am getting really confused on additives. One place I read to add Olive Oil or Steric to make the soap harder. I'm thinking, that if I go with an all natural base, I would want to add Olive oil right??? Also, do I need to get just plain olive oil or is that extra virgin olive oil?

    Also, I am thinking about starting with a Shea Butter Soap. Would it be better to buy a shea butter base or buy a white soap base and add the shea butter.

    Thanks in advance for all of your help

  4. Ok... I tried the CD 8. Waited 48 hours then lit the candle. I put it in my master suit (about 1/2 the size of a room I would like to fill) and walked in room 30 mins later and starting a nice throw. Walked in there an hour after burning and it filled the room nicely. I am not smelling it wandering out into the hallway yet. I felt the jar and it was luke warm. I'm a little concerned about the jar being lukewarm 1 hour after lighting, but we will see what happens. My next burn I am going to put it in my great room and see if it fills that room which I like. I put it in the master bedroom since my husband is not home and I cannot leave for 30 mins and come back to see how the throw is.

  5. We are starting to get off topic, but do you need anything special to sell soaps? I thought you had to meet certain requirements for your state before selling and that can get costly getting your things tested (not you testing, but getting your product tested by the state). I wanted to make soaps but got discouraged about that.

  6. Thanks Stella for the information. I am still going to try the CD 8 for grins and giggles. Maybe the difference between c3 and 135 will still create a nice ht with the 8. We will see. Otherwise I will have to figure it out. The second one I tried, may still survive to the end. It wasn't too hot, but for it still being at the top of the jar, was wondering how hot it would get by the end. The first one I couldn't touch it at all without my figertips being singed.

    Thank-you for also telling me about the jars. I just took the measurements from the website I purchased them from. Didn't think twice about checking them. So when people say to measure the widest part of the jar, that is for those wierd shaped ones like the tureens??? (little off topic, but just wondering)

    It may be before Saturday when I can post. For some reason I was thinking that it was Tuesday all day yesterday.

  7. Ok, I decided to pull out a candle that I had curing for scent throw. I tested this one once before and did not have a scent throw, so I decided to wick that one down. It had a great throw, and only got slightly hot.

    So I decided for grins and giggles that I will pour another one with a CD 8 and see what happens. It seems really weird where most people can wick these jars with a 10-14... but we will see what happens. I'm going to be gone tonight, so I won't be able to do it until tomorrow. I'll post my results when I test them (probably not until Saturday)

    I will win this battle...:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:

  8. ok... so the one that is the wick down was WAY to hot on the first burn and the mushroom was huge. I let it cure for 48 hours and then started burning. The hot throw great after curing for only 48 hours, nice and strong. Could smell it carrying into other rooms. I would say it was better than the wick up.

    This is a 9 oz hex jar with a 3 inch diamater. If I wick down again, I'll be down to a CD 8 which is off all the wicking charts. I know those are just a guideline in wicking, but a CD 8 still seems so small for these jars.

    Things were going so nicely that I thought I would make my "Start selling date" now i don't think so anymore. :angry2:

  9. hmmm... thanks for sharing your testing results. I'm still only working with one jar, but plan to add different ones/sizes in the future.

    Thankfully I don't live by an ocean either. I love breating in the salt air. I am trying to talk my husband into moving to the ocean, but he won't budge. Maybe it is for the best, wouldn't get anything done otherwise:laugh2: I do live in the best of both world. Drive 30 mins west and hit Lake Michigan, drive 30 mins north, and you have woods. I love it.

  10. I was sitting on the beach today (taking a small break from testign) and I was thinking about testing. (ok... not really taking a break, but you know)

    If you have 2 jars that are identaical in diameter, but one is taller than wider and one is wider than taller... would the shorter one take a larger wick than the taller one since it does not have as much room to "trap" the heat in? Does that make sense???

    Thanks for helping me clear my couriosity.

  11. Things were all starting to fall into place, getting candles nicely wicked and I was all happy. NOw my testing has been terrable.

    This all started yesterday. I'm on my 3rd 3 hour test burn with 9 oz hex jars. Not anywhere near the bottom half of the jar and I couldn't even hold the jar above the melt pool for more than 4 seconds. The HT throw is GREAT. I love it, but hate the jar temp. My instinct is to wick down, but I'm also getting mushrooms (which my research shows that I should wick up)

    Now the temp around here today is low 80's. I have the air set in my house at 77.

    Now the question is... should I lower the temp in my house a few more degrees and test again and see how it goes, wait until the outside temp goes down or just pour ones that are a smaller wick.

    For those who want to know- here is my candle specs.

    Ecosoya 135

    6 % fo

    no dye, additives

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank-you

  12. how far into the jar is it? That does seem like a lot of hang up on the sides for it to catch up the last half of the jar. You may just want to give in a double wick unless there is a larger size wick that you can get.

    I think i remember reading that this is a CDN 22? The wick it chart says they go up to 30, but my quick search on the internet didn't find a place that sold higher than the 22's. :sad2:

    My instint is to just keep going and see if it catches up, but I'm also doubting it will do it. I am thinking to throw in the towel and double wick.

  13. Thanks Dave. I am going to try to test it a few more times and see if I get the same reaction. It has been out for 4 hours now and I am still having the watery eyes and it acutally has been worse outside, so I am thinking that today is a higher allergy day. I am using Ecosoya 135 and I really like the smell. It is amazing filled the room very well. I can see where this would be a good seller.

  14. it smells really good burning, but the watering eyes is telling me that it is toooooo strong. It is at 6% right now. I'm thinking about lowering and trying 4%. I decided to try a couple more burn tests to make sure it is the actual FO and not my allergies having a bad day today. (since they are still watering and it has been done with its test for a while now)

  15. I just had a first... I am testing a new scent. Peak's Birthday cake and it is burning right now. It has been burning for 2 hours and my eyes are watering from it... it is sooo strong. :shocked2: I have had strong scents before that I lower the % amount, but this is the first time I had this. I was wondering if this was going to be a strong one when I pulled it out of my curing closet and opened the lid. That just about gaged me. This one may just be melted down and made into firestarters and not tested again:laugh2:

  16. I wait 1 week before i light them for the first time. I have one curing right now that every day I walk by and sniff it. THe CT is AMAZING. I cannot wait to light it.(but have to wait til Thursday) I am praying that the HT is just as good or better than the CT.

  17. I don't work with CDN wicks, so can't help you with that. I use the CD wicks (which I think are simular, but not 100% sure on that). So hopefully somebody who uses CDN wicks can help you on that. I would assume that they will still mushroom since that is caused by an incomplete burn. I don't worry about little mushrooms, I just hate the big ones that look like snot balls at the end of your wick. Just test them out and see what you think.

    My best guess... maybe 2 10's or 8's. I'm taking a shot in the dark here since I have not tried double wicking yet.

×
×
  • Create New...