Carriegsxr6

Actually, you may only need to use 1% instead of 2%

yeah red X's really are nothing major.

scented with a mix of Vetiver EO and FO... swirlled with POPs, and some came out looking a bit like the swirlled sky in "the starry night" painting by vincent van gogh :smiley2:

if its not the high oleic type, then that may explain the addition of vitamin e. high oleic versions have a much longer shelf life then regular types.

I agree, store bought stuff is mostly thickening agents or conditioning agents, or additives that allow a more even application. However, you should be able to get most of these qualities with natural oils alone. My facial cream has about 7 different oils in it, and each one is key!!! There are some good oils out there that truley soften, repair, and tighten the skin. You can even find ones that are light enough for the face, fast absorbing and dont clog or irritate the skin. For a basic day time moisturizer, use Jojoba, Hazelnut, grapeseed as your base oils. These are very light, fast absorbing and the jojoba is most comparison to your own sebum. Hazelnut tightens pours and grapeseed regenerates cells. Add some rosehip for a Vitamin A boost or some evening promrise for extra moisturizing. Also a bit of EMU is even safe for the face and is the most excellent repairing oil. Calendula oil has also been used for softening and repairing the skin, such as from scaring or sun damage. Becareful when purchasing, because some are made by infusing soybean oil or olive oil, which IMO are not the best on the face. you can also find calendula extract, which is in its pure form and would be used as an additive, such as vitamin e. Or another way to add calendula to your recipe, is to steep the petals in a tea and use the tea as the water portion in your recipe. Be sure to strain well with cheese cloth and use a little extra preservative. Other ingrediants to help with applications worn under make up or out in the sun, are modified corn starch to help set your makeup and absorb any extra oil, and Iron Oxides are used for UV protection.

The key to learning the benifits of each oil, is by first learning the acid properties of your oils. Then experiment and tweek your recipe by changing or adding one oil at a time but keep some set amounts. This will allow you to learn how each oil can really change a recipe, and once you start feeling the qualities you like, then you can start to increase or decrease the percentages and really balance out your recipe. Hardness doesnt always mean drying, you can get a hard bar but be low on the cleansing. You could also make a bar with lots of large clear bubbles, yet be low in cleansing and high in conditioning as well. The secret is to not always follow the standard rules of which oils are for moisture and which oils are for bubbles. Learn to find the hidden qualities in other ingrediants such as mango or shea butter, as well as castor oil and a bit of silk. These special ingrediants can dramatically change what properties you get from other basic oils and totally boost the conditioning, creaminess and hardness numbers by only adding as little as 6%. Its always good to find your "secret" ingrediant that makes your recipe feel so different from the rest. Its great to get involved in some of these soap swaps here on this board. :highfive:

Grapeseed is just too light and fragile of an oil to get any real soap benefits from. Its great in lotions, massage oils and body sprays though, abosorbs quick

I am going to stick with my original post. I suggested only replacing a little olive with the soybean, but certainly not all or even half. I would never go as far to say that liquid Soybean has a drying affect. It may not be as moisturizing as an oil with high oleic, but its certainly not drying. Remember we are talking about liquid soybean oil, which doesn’t have as much stearic as its hydrogenated sister types. True it is a soft oil and should be used at a low percentage, but it truly changes the density of the lather, adding a little fluff to the creaminess that you cant get from palm or hydrogenated soybean with higher stearic. This is why I suggested using the liquid soybean oil in that other salt bar recipe. Salt bars have a lot of dense lather and its hard to get any fluff out of them, with the addition of the liquid soybean oil, you can get a much more fluffy lather. I do believe that with the correct combination of oils used in correct amounts, each oil will not only compliment each individual’s strengths, but actually compensate and improve each individuals weakness. My favorite recipe uses 6 sometimes 7 different oils and I wont go less than 6. I am a veggie soaper though and I think that I am having to mix three different types of veggie ingredients in order to get all the benefits I could get from just Beef Tallow alone.

I would suggest subbing a bit of liquid soybean oil but not all. For me soybean oil makes a creamy stable bubbles. But the conditioning is not as good as olive oil is. Also high soybean oil can cause DOS. But just the right amount can make a creamier bar of soap. I would suggest around 10% but no more than 15%

Steric is great to add when your soft/hard oil ratios are more on the soft side, or you are want to make a low cleansing bar, or a high moisturizing bar, and also prevent DOS. Usage is about 1% to your oil recipe. Be sure to use full water because it will speed up trace.

CS - and their lemon verbena is the bomb too

some people add castor oil or shea oil.

Yeah defintaley do some blending. I think blending the EOs with FOs help ancor the scent cause man they do smell so much stronger than just the FOs alone.

I used about 2.5% Sandalwood EO from the co-op and about 5% Peaks Asian Sandalwood. This one is mixed the same ratios but using Palmrose EO and Peaks Rose. Also used Goatsmilk as the liquid, Its a facial bar so I am calling it Rosemilk facial bar. I am going to make some Vetiver next. weeeee

damn girl, you really got your color blending bown to a science. All those embeds and drizzles look way too real.

Way cool girl, big congrats!!!!

I would use fractionated coconut oil.

juried just means that you have to submit photos of your handmade products and you making them to insure that they are infact handmade. I would say being 200-300 bars depending on how big the show is, if you are the only vendor. I would go with 10 scents and bring 24 bars of each scent.

Totally cool, i love them

Oh Oh I know I know, these ones are all from Candlewic. Sweet Sandalwood (the BEST sandalwood vanilla ever) Amber Romance Amber Sunset Passionate Kisses Sensual Amber Sweet Temptations

hmmm, it must be the high sunflower. I was going to make some too someday, but maybe i will investigate another recipe first.

You are just in time, there is a Tutorial for making goats milk soap right here on this board in the classroom section.

use 3% of your total oils in your recipe. Do not include the water and lye. MMS also has the Stearic Acid as well and its much much cheaper.

its like mold since it grows in humidity, it will not show up right away. Like mold or not, its not good. I am pretty sure its because she used the sunflower oil as she stated above. She is going to try the High Oleic next time.

Use the high Oleic one next time. Also make sure when using the soap calc, you choose the proper one. DOS will still develop in any color soap. Its mold, so it grows where ever it wants.