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Carriegsxr6

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Everything posted by Carriegsxr6

  1. Sorry guys, I ended up going out of town for the weekend. I tested a few power burns and I have to say I am pretty impressed. No frosting or buldging out of the sides, no cauliflower look after the wax set back up. But I did get a smal hairline crack right in the middle a couple of times after the wax set back up. I am sure this can be fixed though, but the best thing is that there is no frost what so ever.
  2. I have not experienced bleeding unless I use too much color. maybe you are using too much
  3. its normal. the tops are doing that because of the heat of the oven. If you dont put it in the oven and let it cure normally, the tops wont be as rough, but you will have to wait longer for them to fully harden.
  4. you might want to get a soap stamp instead.
  5. i would order an oz, if you are ordering from the co-op, mine and well take advantage of the savings
  6. most people who cpop, get dried or bubly tops. are you suing the oven method?
  7. i agree! she also has some great soap molds too. i love the material she uses. very flexable
  8. I am going to be testing out this new P2 soy pillar wax, as well as some new 9oz balmoral jars. I am also going to teach a M&P soap making class to some children at our local community center.
  9. I use soy container wax when I dip bears. It seems to release the scent better.
  10. I made a pillar last night. This is a 3x3.5" pillar. Used 13oz P2 wax with .75oz Rain Water FO from candlescience, 4 drops ECO Artic Blue liquid Dye and its wicked with a #2 square braided raw wick. I usually dont color my soy, but for the purpose of testing this new p-2, I went ahead and colored it. As you can see, it is very very smooth, with no frosting or cracking. I will test burn tonight and over the weekend and post all pics on Monday for you.
  11. I just got back from picking up a 5lb bag from Genwax. The store manager there showed me their test candles and I was blown away. He set down two purple 2.5x6" pillars one made with P1 and the other made with P2. The one with P1 had a huge crack down the side and plenty of white frost on the outside to go with it. The p2 had no frosting what so ever and no cracks either. I asked him if they had done any test burns yet, but he said no. Thats where the truth will come out, cause the blooming and frosting comes after the burn as well the the p1.
  12. Yep I bought two molds from him. Great workmansip and great prices.
  13. I dont think its what in it that makes a difference, I think its the way its made. There are a lot of pure soy waxes out there that act different than others. That is because they are hydrogenated a different way. If that makes sense. Just like the way we are able to manipulate the wax by tempering it, pouring at different temps. etc
  14. My initial thought is that I may still want to add some c3 with it. But I will definatley start the testing without it. Hopefully I can pick soem up this weekend and I am also out of c3. And I get edgy when I cant make candles when i feel like it.
  15. hmm I would be hesitant to try it for the fear that it may also draw out the fragrance.
  16. check out ebay for some wooden log molds. there are some good deals on there.
  17. try mixing a bit of container belnd with the votive blend to soften them up a bit so they are not as brittle.
  18. The ultramarine blue should have done the trick. how much are you adding? I would use 1/4 teaspoon for a two lb oil batch, that should give you blue soap for sure.
  19. hmmmmm interesting. Since I can pick this up locally, I may just test some out. http://www.generalwax.com/wax/soy-wax/cate_149/p___P0863956.html
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