Carriegsxr6

woohoo, I was able to get a nice swirl with this using 33% lye solution. Grrrrreat

They are located in PA. I am located in CA. Shipping to me for 10lbs of shea was $11.00 not bad if you ask me. edit: I just ordered an additional 10lbs. I couldnt resist. the yellow shea sample they sent me with my first order was just too yummy.

hello all you experienced scrub makers..... can you help me formulate an emulsifying salt body scrub??? I would like to use three different oils, fine dead sea salt, e-wax and steric acid, BUT I have no clue on where to start with percentages? I was looking for something that would stay somewhat creamy in the jar and not separate. I have heard with regular salt scrubs you usually add 2 parts salt to one part oil, but I believe it will be different when you are adding the e-wax and the steric. Anyone willing to help me with a starting point on percentages? I am aware that I will still need to test and tweak the recipe to my liking. All suggestions are appreciated. :D

looking yummy Are those 8oz jars?

Great idea with the shaving soap

Hello there, welcome aboard.:wave:

Oh my goodness, thank you so much for this advise. I was just able to find a restaurant supply store in my area and I can get extra virgin OO for $12.27 per gallon!!!! :yay:

candlewic has a couple of my faves Wild Huckleberries A basket of blueberries, raspberries & huckleberries surrounded by wild violets. Mixed Berry Crumble A rare treat of ripe raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries generously finished with sugary crumbles of white crusted cake.

Actually you can really start using your soap within a week of making it. The reason for long cure times is to allow all of the water to evaporate out and the bar to become harder, which will allow the bar to last longer in the shower. BUT the bar is actually safe to start using right away. I usually do a water discount when I make my batches and they are almost all the way hardened up within 4 weeks.

1lb of wax =16oz. You multiply 16 by 7% = 1.12oz of FO. I usually use a calculator and a very accurate electronic scale. For the 3% beeswax, Multiply 16 by 3% = .48oz of Beeswax. Also to make it easier, instead of using 16oz of wax (1lb), I just use 14oz of wax, therefore 7% of 14oz is an even .5oz of FO, and 3% of beeswax is 14 multiplyed by 3% = .42oz of beeswax. I would first add the 3% beeswax and 1tsp of additive into the scale and then add the additional amount of regular wax to give an entire total to 14oz, then melt and add your FO to that.

I was wondering, did you actually ask one of the workers there? Because when I first went looking for the LYE at my Lowes, I was looking in the section where they had all the other cleaning supplies and they had the drain openers in liquid form. BUT they actually keep the crystal lye in a totally separate area. It's in the pluming area near the copper piping.

Store it up high and make soap at night when the little ones are sleeping.

yes, looks under their concsentrated liquid dyes section. i belive they are out of stock on a couple of them though.

looking awesome!! I need to get one of those beveler thingies. Can you tell me where you picked yours up?

OMG that is so funny "The Guardian Fairy's" :laugh2: :laugh2: Your soap looks great, they did their job well.

it gets addicting doesnt it???

I buy Shea from them without a reseller ID, so I am not sure what you mean. Here is the link http://www.bamboulaltd.com/shea.php

It is possible to swirl with DWCP. BUT it really depends on your recipe. I always do at least a 30% discount (sometimes a 33%) and if my recipe is right and my FO behaves, then I can pull off a nice swirl.

It depends on which kind of swirling you are doing. If you are doing "in the pot" swirling, then I usually pour my color portion back into the pot when its at medium trace. If I am doing "in the mold" swirling, I usually pour both portions at light trace. I first pour my uncolored portion in the mold, then pour the colored portion on top and swirl around with a stick.

I use their soap grade in my CP soap and it is fab!!! They sent me a sample of the Yellow and it feels so wonderful directly on my skin. Its almost odorless and not as greasy as Agbanga's unrefined Shea. The soap grade is made from nuts that are picked too young, and needed to be roasted longer, thus having a stronger smoked smell and darker in beigh color. Its still high quality, and when I add it to my CP, the color and smell go away anyways. WOW I just noticed they lowers their prices, Maybe I will order some of their yellow as well for making some body butter.

Not really sure about using the machine myself........ BUT Did anyone notice how old and dirty this machine is and what the surroundings look like. Looking at this picture would definately not make me want to buy one.

re-batch my A** That looks great :highfive:

If you only want to stick with these oils then: eliminate some of the hard oils (like the lard) , and replace them with more soft oils. either split the soybean and olive to 15% each and lower the lard to 20% OR use 30% olive oil and get rid of the soybean. conditioning 58 is actually pretty good here are your new numbers..... Castor Oil 10% Coconut 20% Lard 20% Olive Pomace 15% Soybean 15% Shea Butter 20% Hardness: 38 Cleansing 14 Condition 59 Bubbly 23 Creamy 33 Iodine 66 INS 137

i went to the website and it says this.... did it change?? Wholesale Supplies Plus is pleased to announce a Flat Rate Shipping Program. Flat Rate Shipping of $6.95* for Orders of $0 to $25

yep... basically you are buying a pre-made batch of CP and remelting it down to add your color and fragrance. It sounds like it behaves the same as M&P (same concept)