ProudMarineMom

Those are great calculators. I use them all the time. You can also do the same thing in a spreadsheet. I created a batch size one to use for the main recipes that I use. That way I don't have to keep typing in the ingredients all the time.

Their Plumeria is very nice.

Those look great Paul!!

Forgot to say beautiful swirl. I love the colors!

This is one that I saw, not sure if it's the same.

http://www.lovinsoap.com/2011/10/the-peacock-swirl/

I left a bar of soap in the wash room at the market, someone put a small nail in it, thank god the woman that used it didn't get scratched or poked.

What is wrong with people???

He still does bulk oils sales on his website but Dragon's Blood is not one of them for some reason. For smaller amounts there are two supplies, one on the east coast and one on the west. The links are on the SGS site: http://www.southerngardenscents.com/

IMHO I think his version is the best as well. I've been hoarding my last little bit and need to order more.

CS is a very good supplier, their fragrance oils are very nice. You will need to test the fragrance in your system to get the best hot throw. I've used Dragon's Blood from NG, CS, Elements, another place I can't recall and Tony's from Southern Garden Scents. I'm pretty sure I had to wick up the fragrance from CS, but I also colored pretty dark. The joys of testing.

Save on Scents has colored sticks as well. On sale right now, too.

http://www.saveonscents.com/index.php/cPath/4_385_380

I think they look fine as well. Don't know if you have tried any of your rebatch soap but been using one of mine and it's wonderful. Mine was a milk soap and I noticed the last ingredient just as I was pouring into the mold. Not the prettiest of soaps but it sure feels great on my skin. It still needs to cure but wanted to try some.

We'll get better with practice. And like Candybee said, you gained some valuable knowledge for next time.

Excellent job with the drizzle. Really does look like caramel.

Oh yeah, I remember that now. Wasn't doing CP at the time so didn't save the link. They also have a 6-drawer one as well....

It is fun to look at. Kinda of a 'Ye Old Country Store'

Did you buy that or did DH make it?

There is a good PDF on this page http://rivercitysoaps.com/dwcp/index.html about lye solutions.

Paul, I read this before I went to work and thought it was a pretty interesting idea. I've only done the loose tea in the base as well. Don't know if you would get the benefits of the antioxidants and what-not that is in tea. Sounds like an experiment to me.

The swirls turned out lovely, though. Beautiful soap. What colorant did you use?

Very pretty! Love the color of the embeds.

I can chow down on some chocolate mousse, good stuff Maynard!

Periwinkle, are you using chocolate ingredients or a chocolate fragrance oil? Candybee got me thinking, can probably make a nice layered chocolate soap, make it look like mousse. Adding that one to the to do list....

You know, I've made all my batches with silk so I have no basis for comparison. Will have to try one without it, see if I'm able to play with the swirls or layers more.

I just got done running various tests on amounts of milk in soap and with all of them I did everything I could to prevent gel.

So, I guess we just have to embrace the gel and make sure it isn't a partial for milk soaps. I assume you were trying to get a nice, creamy white bar. No TD?

Kitn, does the plastic wrap mess up textured tops? Not that mine are all that spectacular to look at yet, so maybe that would help! Wonder if I'm losing too much heat out of the top. I have the silicone mold inside a shoe box with small towels wrapped around the sides. Put on the shoe box top, put that box in a post office box, wrap that in towels with another towel on top. I just have not been putting plastic wrap on the mold itself, nor do I have a 'lid' for the mold.

No, I've been trying not to look at the soap for 24 hours. The very first batch I kept peeking and figured I probably caused the partial gel. But, I was excited. So, been making a batch the night before an in-office day since I have to hit the sack early because I get up at 0' dark hundred. And, since I'm at work I can't look. I assume it's in it's little cocoon doing it's thing.

Nothing beats homemade - whether it soap or chocolate chip cookies!!

mmmmmm, chocolate chip cookies....

I think it's adorable!! And, don't be hatin' on your M&P. It can be a tough medium to work with. I've seen everyone's M&P soaps here in the gallery and they are gorgeous. For the life of me I can't get a good swirl with it, I'm swirl-challenged. Plus, you can create presentations like this very quickly.

I have only made salts for decoration and some fizzy salts for my little neice and I've been using my Select Shades from Tradewinds, which work well. I think any soap safe type of colorant can be used. Couple of sites say you can use food coloring. Some of the colorants you have to take it easy with because it can stain the tub or washcloths if you use too much.

I read that about using water to dissolve micas, so I gave it a try. Did it with some M&P and it worked great. Actually dissolves pretty easily and you don't need much water. Much easier than trying to get it smooth in oil or glycerine. I tried it with M&P because I always add powdered goatsmilk, which is reconstituted with water. So, didn't think a little extra water in the mica would hurt the soap. Haven't tried that in any other product though.

Thanks TallTayl! I did freeze the milk portion but it stilled move a bit quick on me. Oils needed to be cooler.

I have a few more nob questions if you all can stand it. Been trying to search but must not be getting the criteria right.

If you insulate the mold and don't look at it for 24 hours, how do you know if it gelled? I know for sure one of my batches did because I got a partial. But the others, I guess they did.

How long can SAP take? I think I'm under the mistaken impression soap shouldn't zap after 24-48 hours. Think I read if you stop the gel (freezer, etc.) it could take up to a week for the lye to neutralize, is that true? Reason I ask is I have been cutting my soap between the 24-48 hour mark. The sides, middle and bottom seem fine but the tops are still zappy.

Maybe I'm not waiting long enough or I'm doing something wrong. I've been using the RTCP method (cool oils / hot lye), 30% lye solution and 7% superfat.