Jeanoroid Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Thank you to the forum for allowing me to join..And thanks in advance for any help provided via fellow forum members. This is a large (apprx 1lb) white beeswax candle (w only small amount of green dye) set in silicone mold (Moldstar 15). The first few attempts all came out with the white crusties (is this typical mottling?) and a few minor bubbles.Poured at about 180 degrees. No release.The candle pulled from the mold pretty easily. In attempting to get rid of the white stuff I added some Vybar and poured a little hotter.Let sit for about 18 hours in ac'd kitchenThe candle would not even start to come out of the mold and the mold was subsequently ruined.I made a new mold then used release (Mann 200) and repoured at around 165 degrees.Sat in 75 degree area then some time in fridge.The latest candle pour candle is now stuck again. Called Smoothon and they offered that I should preheat (in oven) the mold to equal temp of the melted wax. To avoid the "white crusties", bubbles and sticking to the mold what else should be doing? Rather, what am I doing wrong here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Cool mold! I don't get beeswax nearly that hot. About 150-160 is as high as I go. No vybar, it is not necessary. I never preheat my silicone molds. I sometimes DO use candle release spray in silicone molds, and always for metal molds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 Thank you TallTayl,Are you saying the lower temp resolve the white flakey stuff or is that more helpful in regard to it sticking to the mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Thank you TallTayl,Are you saying the lower temp resolve the white flakey stuff or is that more helpful in regard to it sticking to the mold?Both. Beeswax acts strangely when heated to high temps before pouring.it sticks and does not shrink the same way it does when poured at lower temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I agree with everything TallTayl says about beeswax. I pour my beeswax as soon as it's melted, no higher temps are necessary. I use powdered mold release in my wax and spray my silicone or metal molds good with a mold release spray. I ruined a few taper molds by heating my beeswax too high, so now I pay attention when pouring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks guys. Seems my beeswax is too hot when it melts so I let cool to around 150. Sticking problem seems to be resolved with the release evened out but I'm still getting the pesky white spots. The residue is gritty for whatever that's worth. Ruined a second mold figuring this out and now I'm repairing my original sculpt (ugh).I have a bunch of ruined beeswax with that residue and bits of silicone and I only have parafin wax left for trials. I'll post some pics tonight.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Mold released well. Still having issues with the crusty spots.. D'oh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Looks like it is mostly in the crevices. The larger flat surface areas are shiny. Could it be your wax is sticking in the creases? I spray silicone release agent ( i think the current can is from Peak) in a few of my molds when this happens.Seems to only happen on my urethane molds. The OOMOO and MoldMax silicone molds are fine with no release agent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks Tayl,Do you order the Peak product or is that available in craft shops?How thin/thick are you laying the release on?There are remnants / whitish particles remaining in the mold after pulling it out as well. Not sure if they are the same as what is seen on these seems.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 I use the aerosol spray. In the shop now - the current one is actually not from Peak , but the last one was Peak and both work equally well. I hold the mold and can as far away from my face as possible, hold my breath, then Spray away from myself in 3 short bursts. Can't say I have ever noticed any white particles left behind in a mold like you see.. Sometimes the urethane ones hold on to little bits of wax, but not if they are well-sprayed before hand. What kind of mold material are you using? If you gently heat the mold with a heat gun (not so hot to melt the mold, but just the wax) do those bits melt? If it is just stck wax you may be able to use scrap wax to pour a few sacrifice pieces to get them off. Sometimes I submerge my sticky urethane in hot water to melt excess wax off. I really prefer the OOMOO or MoldMax silicones though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 This is probably out of the ball park, but that looks like frosting like what we all get in jars....... Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 I use the aerosol spray. In the shop now - the current one is actually not from Peak , but the last one was Peak and both work equally well. I hold the mold and can as far away from my face as possible, hold my breath, then Spray away from myself in 3 short bursts. Can't say I have ever noticed any white particles left behind in a mold like you see.. Sometimes the urethane ones hold on to little bits of wax, but not if they are well-sprayed before hand. What kind of mold material are you using? If you gently heat the mold with a heat gun (not so hot to melt the mold, but just the wax) do those bits melt? If it is just stck wax you may be able to use scrap wax to pour a few sacrifice pieces to get them off. Sometimes I submerge my sticky urethane in hot water to melt excess wax off. I really prefer the OOMOO or MoldMax silicones though. I use Mold max 30 pretty much exclusively because you generally don't need to vac bubbles. I also do resin repros and OOMOO just falls apart after one or two uses.I went back and poured a few paraffin candles without this issue but I want to try beeswax again this coming weekend and I will try these recommendations.I recently saw a person on Etsy doing essentially the same thing I'm attempting (monster molds / beeswax) but they are getting beautiful results so I know there's a way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 This is probably out of the ball park, but that looks like frosting like what we all get in jars.......Trappeur I wondered that as well.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 Oh and the particles don't melt under heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Have you ever filtered your beeswax? Maybe there's something in it? Sometimes i have to melt and run mine through felt to eliminate the organic bits that form as it heats.The frosting beeswax gets is bloom. It's way different from soy in that a little heat or humidity eliminates it easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 I haven't filtered Beeswax. Ordered some fresh beeswax to see if that is the issue.I spoke to a person who I buy molded beeswax candles from and they said they never have the problems I've described and they pour at around 175 and they never use a release other than occasional shea butter.The main difference is that they are making candles approximately a quarter the size I've attempted.Whenever I did a test in a small mold I never had and issue - but when I pour the full sized mold it takes sometimes over 13 hours to set.I'm wondering if maybe I'd better doing the pours in increments - allowing layers to cool more quickly.Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I would not pour in layers as it could cause too many more problems. Your layers could separate, you may get visible pour lines & reheating your wax over and over could possibly cause a discoloration in the wax layers, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 My typical beeswax silicone molded pour is in the 22 oz neighborhood with varying degrees of detail. I have never had the results you seem to get. I use room temp silicone molds with no release. I don't take wax temps, but i know it varies. The surfaces are smooth and shiny.One smooth pour or you get lines. Too cold you get jump lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Just threw caution to the wind w the batch of farm fresh beeswax I received today. Poured a quickee test in one of the larger molds - no layers it came out perfect.I guess it was just the beeswax itself. This stuff smells much stronger/richer than the HL brand.Not even a hint of sticking to the mold.If I can make it work twice I think all is golden! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 http://tennesseeya.tumblr.com/post/125471636595 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanoroid Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 oops pardon the sideways-ness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Looking very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 Hello, did you ever work out what the issue was? I am having exactly the same thing happening. Only in my bubble silicon mould though. Not on any other mould. Sooo bizarre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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