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SA Pic for Amorelei and Carriegsxr6 (and others)


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Some folks were interested in the soy additive I used lately so here is a quick pic - pushing 4 ounces of CB135 with two chips (one red/one blue each) to see what it looks like (left no SA, right SA). You probably won't be able to see it, but SA makes it look like you added BW to the soy, but you can still say "100% veg". The SA is from http://www.rusticescentuals.com/wax.html .

After you click the pic if you can zoom in on them you will see a circular crack on the plain CB135 on the surface on the left (what you can't see is the frosting on the bottom), and this is completely gone on the right. I think I will have to pour hotter to get even better results.

The unfortunate thing is the wet spot forming on the right with the SA - this can possibly be controlled with pour temps which I have not had the time to play with at this point.

Just wanted to post this if anyone was interested.

post-98-139458407466_thumb.jpg

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Vicky - though I still got some frost with the SA post burn - it was much worse without it. I wasn't surprised though that I could see every little bit of frosting - the wax is even darker than I see on the screen here.

I haven't extensively tested the additive - but in this set the SA one didn't need any larger wick - it may have actually burned a slight bit easier. (Could have been a slight difference in height wick height during the burn - you know how things go).

EDIT: FYI - I have been doing nearly all my "frost" and "adhesion" testing with mineral oil (actually parol oil) in place of FOs so I can keep that variable consistent.

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I have been reading almost everything on the frost inhibitor debating if I want to try them. I have an all natural line and no I don't color them but I still see the frost and would like to get rid of it. I also really hate the way the wax set back up.

That is a really good idea with the mineral.

What was you percentage of the SA?

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I did mine at 4% since the site said 3 to 5%. It should work better for you since you don't color. What I forgot to mention if you are interested, is that the LONGER you burn them in a session the greater likelihood of getting more frost. (I let my 2.5 containers go one time for 6 hours and that was pretty evident for me).

HTH

Here's a link about adding up to 10% http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26392.

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I think the SA is composed of Candelilla wax or Carnauba wax or both. These are harder waxes (even harder than beeswax) and probably cause shrinking like hard pillar wax does, therefore causing the wet spots. It also allows for a higher FO percentage use because of the hardening.

I am not familar with using dye chips, but using 2 chips on only 4oz of wax sounds like a lot of dye. do you think that may be causing any problems with the collapsing of the tops without the SA?

I think you should back down on the percentage of SA you are using. I belive this is the same veggie modifier that the other 2 websites I mentioned are selling, and those were created by EL to originially be used in their waxes. So the percentage suggestion was probably created based off their waxes.

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I am not familar with using dye chips, but using 2 chips on only 4oz of wax sounds like a lot of dye. do you think that may be causing any problems with the collapsing of the tops without the SA?

Actually no, I can achieve that with soy alone :)

I went heavy on the dye just to be sure I could easily see any and all frost - don't do this much usually at all.

I will try a bit less of the additive - plus adjust pour temp to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks!

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Actually no, I can achieve that with soy alone :)

I went heavy on the dye just to be sure I could easily see any and all frost - don't do this much usually at all.

I will try a bit less of the additive - plus adjust pour temp to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks!

k, post more pics if you can

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