starlessjade Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 After searching through threads, I have pieced together this info on how to make a layered rustic pillar candle, with frost and with interesting but still attractive effects. I just wanted to check and make sure everything sounds correct before I start playing. I do still have one question though- should the mold be chilled beforehand or not? I've found people saying both, so I'm guessing either way has its advantages or disadvantages, but what exactly are the pros and cons of chilling the mold? Wax Pure paraffin- IGI 1343 is good Add UV inhibitor to keep colors from fading Add 3 tablespoons of steric acid to increase FO load and create frost Wick Flat braid, square braid, or LX Pouring -Do not use mold release -Add FO at 170-180 degrees, then let wax cool to about 150 and pour slowly into the mold -Wait until wax starts to show signs of cooling and gently slosh to get a little wax up the sides of the mold- try tilting mold and rolling 360 degrees -Wait until the wax in the mold has a “skin” on top but is still sloshy underneath (about 20 minutes) -Pour next layer at 150, either gently or letting some wax get through the top of the last layer depending on desired effect, repeat sloshing -Final layer- poke relief holes around the center that penetrate every layer, and pour a layer of hot wax making sure to fill in the relief holes Cooling Let the candle cool at room temperature until it’s ready to come out of the mold. Do not force cooling or removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patience Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Wow, you did an excellent job of piecing together that information! Can't imagine that you've missed anything. There are a lot of rustic pillar chandlers on here. They can tell you better than I can. Hey Scented...are you out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 You've been doing your research, haven't you? Everything looks good to me - except that I do spray a little bit of cooking spray in my molds before pouring. Give it a shot and post some pics! Also, I don't chill my molds since it's cold in my basement anyhow (I'm hypothermic as I type this since I've been down here for hours lol) - so mine stay pretty cold by themselves. I'm not sure what the cons would be, to tell you the truth. I'm sure I've read somewhere on here why peep don't like chilling them, but I don't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnjieBurdett Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Thank you Starless! You asked the question I was about to ask myself :highfive: I was also wondering if you can make rustics in polycarbonate moulds or does it HAVE to be metal to get that rustic effect?God I love those rustics that I see on here!!! That is my goal....to make rustics like you guys do Anjie,x. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamondk Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I get better rustics in the aluminum molds when I do them. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Yes Patience I'm here lol.A couple of things I would add to this would be: No need to chill the molds. Room temp molds work fine. Really if you chill the molds, they should be like in a deep freeze for a few hours, enough to pop and jump when you pour. The only thing chilled molds tends to do is give a few jump lines, nothing that can't be accomplished via no chill. In addition, you want to pour fairly sloppy. It tends to give random lines too. Don't be surprised to see holes in the surface of your candle. They tend to happen because of the "cold" pour. If you look down the side of your mold you can see where they'll be. You can either zap them with a heat gun or poke them with a skewer and usually they will dislodge. Typically, I have not gotten a rustic out of a poly carb mold. I suppose you can try it and see what happens. I just am not a fan of the poly carb because of their life span. I don't spray anything into my aluminum molds. Now the new ones I did spray some mold release into, but found that with those molds, release really isn't necessary. If it were any other kind, I would think about a release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Yes Patience I'm here lol.A couple of things I would add to this would be: No need to chill the molds. Room temp molds work fine. Really if you chill the molds, they should be like in a deep freeze for a few hours, enough to pop and jump when you pour. The only thing chilled molds tends to do is give a few jump lines, nothing that can't be accomplished via no chill. In addition, you want to pour fairly sloppy. It tends to give random lines too. Don't be surprised to see holes in the surface of your candle. They tend to happen because of the "cold" pour. If you look down the side of your mold you can see where they'll be. You can either zap them with a heat gun or poke them with a skewer and usually they will dislodge. Typically, I have not gotten a rustic out of a poly carb mold. I suppose you can try it and see what happens. I just am not a fan of the poly carb because of their life span. I don't spray anything into my aluminum molds. Now the new ones I did spray some mold release into, but found that with those molds, release really isn't necessary. If it were any other kind, I would think about a release.I have ALWAYS been overly paranoid about my candles sticking in the mold - maybe next time I'll be brave and try it without. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnjieBurdett Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Thanks, thats my question answered Anjie,x. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I have ALWAYS been overly paranoid about my candles sticking in the mold - maybe next time I'll be brave and try it without. lolI was paranoid for awhile, but then I poured a batch and forgot to season them and they did fine. So I tried it again and they did fine lol. Now I don't bother lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugarysweet95 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Hi, Glad you have a pretty good idea on what to do!!! The last few days i've been trying rustics and the last lot i did turned out really well!!!As for polycarbonate moulds, i just love them, i love the shapes you get and the ease of wicking them and the fact that you can see through the mould to see how your candle is coming along.As for candles stcking, i have just as much bad luck with candles sticking in aluminium moulds as polycarbonates and about 10 mins in the freezer seems to do the trick!!!As for how long they last, had a few that broke on me, but they were my first ones i bought, when i was only just learning what i was doing!Anyway i have one question about using metal moulds - people often say look down the side of your mould and get the heat gun on any air bubbles etc, but how can you see these in an aluminium mould? Prob a silly question but i'm curious!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Well I use aluminum and that's where I see them lol. Tilt it around. It twinkles in the light. Seriously. It looks like any air bubble, but it's shiny. Serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugarysweet95 Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Ok, i'll try that when i make another rustic tomorrow in my aluminium mould - rustics really are addicting!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I don't think I could use a see-through mold - that would take most of the fun out of it for me! I love the anticipation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donita Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Poly molds typically produce a very shiny surface.....therefore...not so good for a frosted rustic look. I guess that the stearic helps with the mold release so using pam etc. isn't necessary. If you didn't use the steric in a "dirty" mold...you might have a big problem. (smile) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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