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Another liquid soap question


diamondk

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I have been reading and searching and was wondering about coming up with a good recipe. Do ya'll use the soap calc like you would for CP for LS except changing the lye type? I am looking at different recipes in the book that I have. TIA

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I use the calc at www.summerbeemeadow.com I read somewhere that they are one of the few who have a true 0% superfat. (which you need to do for LS) So you can go there and input KOH And play around.

I have been playing around with this calc but it doesn't give you any soap qualities. Is there someplace where I can go and see what percentages of the oils you can or should use? For example is there a certain percentage of castor you shouldn't go over. I know the coconut oil can be used up to 90% but it could be drying that way. TIA

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Hello

The 3-oils ready to use liquid soap base paste that we offer at our website is made with the following oils and proportions:

Safflower 67% / Coconut 23% / Castor 10%

Our LS base pastes are adjusted in production to be close to 50/50 soap/water content for consistent dilutions. We suggest starting at a 35% soap content dilution for use in LS dispenser pump bottles or at 15% dilution for use in a foaming dispenser. A dilution chart for 50/50 soap/water LS base pastes can be found at our website.

Use of our SBM online calculator, specifying potassium hydroxide as the alkali used and zero % 'superfat', will result in a diluted soap at about 10.5 pH. A small amount of final neutralization is needed with 4 Tbsp of a 5% Borax solution (the most borax that will dissolve in room temp water) for each 8 oz of our LS base paste used (or 2 Tbsp of warmed 10% borax solution or 1Tbsp of warmed 20% borax solution, etc.). Final neutralized LS should be at about 9.5 pH. Note that LS formulas containing a large amount of coconut and/or castor oils can actually be 'nudged' down below 9.0 pH, if one is careful and can measure the resulting pH. (Yes, high-coconut can be drying to the skin due to its efficient cleaning ability, but being able to reduce the LS's pH by a half a point contributes to less drying.)

To improve the "feel" of the final soap, liquid vegetable glycerin can be added to the final soap at up to approx. 10% of the total final diluted soap weight. In similar fashion, up to about 3% Turkey Red oil can also be added. (Turkey Red is a modified castor oil that is completely soluble in water and is the only oil that can be used to superfat LS without risk of clouding).

The resulting LS soap - pump or foam - is quite nice to use and can be easily made by entering 67 ounces Safflower oil, 23 ounces coconut oil and 10 ounces of castor oil into our SBM calculator, specifying potassium hydroxide and 0% superfat. Calculate the result and then use our "resizer" to resize it to fit in an 8" by 4" by 1" mold to make about 32 volume ounces of resulting soap base paste. Want to make two quarts of paste? set the "height of soap in mold" in our recipe resizer to 2", etc. (We will have a liquidsoap-specific revised online calculator at our website as soon as I might have the needed time and health to finish it)

More answer than you expected, I'm sure, but I hope this all might help those who are wrestling with how to get started with liquid soaps.

Steve M

www.summerbeemeadow.com

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Studies not trying to sell detergent bars have shown that the skin's pH returns to normal very quickly. I don't have the opportunity to search for them now but I can try later.

And I'm not sure what the holistic stuff is recommending - not soap but what then?

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