Bernadette Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 When you test your votives, for those of you that make them, do you test them the same way you do your other candles, or do you power burn them, or both? I'm trying some for myself and family and friends, and I know they all burn them differently. Over the years I've heard them complain about store bought, as they don't stay lit for more than a couple of hours, have low flames, etc. , and cost too much. I thought if I power burned them, they should settle all these complaints. TIA for your comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewOrleansLady Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) Definately test in all the different time alotments. Especially burn for an hour and blow out and cool and relight. If you don't adjust your wick while it still has a melt pool when it cools it can lean over and then break your glass the next time you burn it. I say test only so you can tell your customers what not to do. So you can honestly tell them what's gonna happen if they do it wrong. Also test if you trim your wick or not cause people are famous for not buying the candle quenchers I sell and just blow out a candle and never trim them properly. My wick self trim to an extent but not all the way. IMHO, votives are the hardest ones to teach a person "how" to properly burn. People think it's a frickin' candle ...you light it and that's it. I've actually had people come back to my shop mad cause the candle only burnt for maybe an hour. I was so confused cause mine are 12-14 hour burners. After a few questions I found out the idiot had put it on a plate like a pillar candle. Gee fool....can't imagine why I sell these little glass things right next to the votive candles....morans!!!!! Edited January 28, 2010 by NewOrleansLady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudsnwicks Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 I've actually had people come back to my shop mad cause the candle only burnt for maybe an hour. I was so confused cause mine are 12-14 hour burners. After a few questions I found out the idiot had put it on a plate like a pillar candle. I've had people do that too. What I don't understand is, once they see it isn't going to stand up on its own, why didn't they extinguish the flame immediately and transfer it into a container. That's what I would have done if I wasn't aware a votive wasn't a standalone candle.Bernadette, you should test them in different ways to see how things can go wrong, so that if someone has a problem, you'll know what they're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernadette Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 Okay, I guess I asked the question wrong again(that'll teach me to post when I wake up in the middle of the night! LOL!). I know they need to be burned in a tight fitting container, but I guess what I was looking for is do you think most people expect to be able to light them and have them burn all the way to end? Or light them for a few hours, blow out, and light again some other time or what? Personally, I gave up on votives a long time ago when I used to purchase, because the flame would get so small, you could barely see the flame and I couldn't see the point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudsnwicks Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Yes, some will light them and expect to be able to let it burn until the end. But then such people will also try to do it to other types of candles, so it isn't just a votive problem. There will also be others who light it for only a short amount of time, not long enough to get a full melt pool, so that the next burn could be problematic. I don't think there is any one particular mistake which occurs most often. You will see all types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Your job with testing is to first see how the candle burns for prescribed periods of time. I use the standard 1 hour of burn per inch of diameter. Once I have that dialed in, I do a power burn test to see if the candle overheats if left to burn straight through. Sometimes I find I have to adjust my wicking down for that scenario. Once you are satisfied that your votives will burn safely in most scenarios, you're good to go. As far as what the customer does with them - oh my!! We can only give instructions, pray they don't do anything stupid, and carry liability insurance in case they do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 One hour per inch of candle diameter is a rule of thumb that some (not all) candlemaking suppliers began providing a while back as a guideline for beginners. It's not really a great a guideline, but has unfortunately been over-promoted to epic proportions on the message board.It certainly has nothing whatsoever to do with votive candles.My standard test is to light them and let them burn undisturbed to the end. That's how I test them for both burn quality and total burn time. I look for a reasonably consistent flame (doesn't get big or tiny), no smoke, no mushrooming, no hangup. Once it looks good, I make sure it also works in shorter sessions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) One hour per inch of candle diameter is a rule of thumb that some (not all) candlemaking suppliers began providing a while back as a guideline for beginners. It's not really a great a guideline, but has unfortunately been over-promoted to epic proportions on the message board.It's a decent rule of thumb - no one ever claimed it was set-in-stone law - and works well for most folks despite your objections, Top.Once it looks good, I make sure it also works in shorter sessions.So in essence, you are doing the same thing in reverse order. Edited January 28, 2010 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 So in essence, you are doing the same thing in reverse order. I'm not doing anything in relation to the diameter of the candle.If you wouldn't mind posting a photo, I'd love to see how one of your votives looks when it's burning all the way down in one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSioux Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 I test all my candles both ways - power burn & intervals. The time always works out pretty close on both type burns. In the real world, I'm more concerned about the person that burns for short periods of time, doesn't get a full mp & screws up the 'memory' of the wax. Once you create a tunnel it's going against the odds that the wick will catch-up & use all the hang-up wax. On the other hand, power burns can create scary hot containers, wild mushrooms, & wicks that fall over in a deep mp. I use zinc wicks, so they always stand up, but can mushroom badly. I guess what we're all saying is ... every action has an equal & opposite reaction. You have to test completely to reach a happy medium, cause we sure can't control the overwhelming amount of stupid in the world!HTH -- Susan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 cause we sure can't control the overwhelming amount of stupid in the world!That's an absolute FACT, Sue, that can't be overstated enough!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap n Crunch Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I always "Power Burn" a few to make sure they are going to be safe. I will step down a wick size if I have any doubts. Votives will still function fairly well with a slightly smaller than perfect wick. Mine usually leave a litle bit of wax on the glass after a short burn, but once they pass the 90 minute mark, they start self cleaning. I use 4794 and most of my votives take either LX8 or LX10 wicks. (I don't understand how CS suggests a LX14 for this wax, as even my best Nag Champa or Patchouli mixes get too hot with a LX12) I find that even underwicked (Using LX8 when LX10 would have been better) I get decent throw and I don't drown out the wick upon relighting. My votives just don't seem to tunnel down much. There are some days I wish they made an LX 8.75 wick though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radellaf Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 LX-14 has worked with EcoSoya's PB (or Candlewic's, which is too greasy for anything but votives). I've also needed one that big for some IGI1343 votives. With 1274 or 4794, though, yeah, I've had even the small LX-10 can cause too big a flame depending on the shape of the holder.Options I've looked at but not tried include the CD-2,3,4 and TL-25,28,31 wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Options I've looked at but not tried include the CD-2,3,4 and TL-25,28,31 wicks. Not sure which wax to which you were referring, but with Ecosoya PB for votives, CD 5-7 work very well for me, depending on the particular votive mold and FO. HTH If you wouldn't mind posting a photo, I'd love to see how one of your votives looks when it's burning all the way down in one go.I'll see what I can do. Lately I have been making more palm wax votives than soy, but the next time I run a test-a-thon, I'll try to remember to take some photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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