pamperme Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Was using zinc ...too much mushroom ...tooooo much smoke...too fast of a burn. I really don't think zinc is made to go in a soy blend anyway.Thinking of switching to HTP.Does anyone who uses this wax have a real good outcome with a wick...or a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I think other members will want to know type and size of jar you're using and what type of wax you're using. Also, dye or no dye?I certainly cannot help you with wicking issues, I'm sorry; I'm a beginner and IMO wicking is the toughest thing to learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I have used this wax for years and find that cd wicks work the best for me. I heat the wax to 190 degrees and then add dye and fo and pour at 185. I pour into warmed jars and place in a covered box for a slow cooling. I rarely get wet spots and most fos are strong from day one. This is a great wax IMHO. I use a cd 18 in a 12 oz and 16 oz straight sided jar (Salsa). The majority of fos do just fine at 6%. You can add 1/2 to 1 tsp of coconut oil to enhance throw (some use more than that) but with this year's soy it hasn't been necessary. HTH.Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Steve, what size wick should I start with when using this wax in a Libbey status jar (3.125" diameter x 4" tall)? I tried a CD8 but had lost of wax around the edge and no throw.Would a CD 18 be appropriate for a 16oz apothecary (3.75" x 4" tall),or should I double wick the apothecary with two CD 8? I do not use dyes. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 My jars are 3.38 in diameter and the 18 burns down with some hang up at the end but the jar does not get too hot to handle. I was able to single wick a 4" diameter with a 22 but it was like a huge flame that made me uncomfortable. You'll just have to test and see. I have used LX with this wax in the past but liked the cd better. The eco does ok but it just always looks messy to my eyes. HTH.Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Thank you, Steve, it does help! :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamperme Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) So I guess I should start with a CD 8 for an 8oz jelly jar. They are slightly over 2" in diameter on the top. Does that sound about right to you? or do you think you need to wick up to a 10 with this wax? I don't like the hang up on the sides and neither do my customers. Thanks for the help! Edited May 24, 2010 by pamperme added to post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kigers24 Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 For 8 oz. sq. mason, CDN14 is my starting size and one I use a lot, also HTP105, a few heavy FO's a CDN16 Or 18.This wax likes to play catch up once the flame drops down in the jar so be careful not to over wick for the first few burns.I also pour hot and cool in a Styrofoam box with the lid on overnight. If you do a search for GL 70/30 you will get a lot of information about this wax, it is the same wax as TN 70/30 and I have used it since it came out. A lot of my old post has some wick sizes in them and FO's I use and sell that have excellent HT.For the JJ, I would start with a CD10, HTP 93 or LX 18. For the 16 oz. apothecary I use 2 LX 14's a lot for lighter FO's.I am burning a Satsuma (AH/RE) candle I made 4 years ago with this wax right now and it is just as strong as when I made it and is burning beautifully. Again this wax has its own way of burning and I always have some hang up in the corners till about 1/2 way down the jar, but it cleans up nicely after that.I agree with Steve that this is a great wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamperme Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Thanks for all the replys...gotta figure out which one to go with. I just don't like the zinc in these blends. I hope this wax is like the Keystone one they don't carry anymore. I loved it and need a replacement for it. This looks like it would be a close bet. Even comes in the same case size and slab sizes. Love being able to cut it with a knife...like butter I will give the CD 10 a whirl first and see what happens. Only starting out with 10 scents so this should not be to hard to get done and test in a decent amount of time. Gotta get ready for the holidays. I do gift baskets also and I would much rather have my candles in them and someone elses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Debbie, have you ever tried the Satsuma from NG? I made a candle with TN70/30 and used NG Satsuma. For once I made a candle that throws, problem is that it smells like fuel... Did not smell fuel OOB but in the wax it sure does. Maybe I should try the one from AH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kigers24 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I have been using the one from AH for 5 years at 1 1/4 oz FO PP wax (would be fine @ 1 oz PP but I am known for really strong throwing candles so I use 1 1/4 oz. on my scents). Have never had a fuel smell and I have sold dozens of cases of candles in this scent with many repeat buyers (also makes an awesome bar of CP Goat Milk Soap) I use a CDN 14 with this FO in my 8 oz. square mason jar and it throws GREAT!! I color it with 2 orange chips PP of wax and it makes a beautiful bright orange candle.Have never used the one from NG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Thanks for the info, Debbie. I will order some from AH. This one from NG is too much like fuel, don't like it one bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbla Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I am tinkering with this wax now with CD wicks (thank you, chuck, for the wick suggestion). Do you guys using it find it does better with a bit of cure time? Or is it pretty much the same whether you burn it soon after pouring or wait a few days or weeks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kigers24 Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I give mine 2 days when testing a new FO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Cure time never hurts. Light fos demand enough time to build a decent cold throw IMHO. Heavy hitters are good to go from day one. That's the attraction of this wax that keeps me using it. If I get a special rush order, I don't have to worry about the ht or ct being strong enough without a lengthy cure time. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darbla Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I unintentionally cured it for a few days just because I didn't have time to fool with burning and keeping tabs on it. I mixed 1 oz Candle Source 'The Great Pumpkin' with 1/2 oz Peak 'Amish Harvest' to try to make something stronger on the pumpkin but lightly spiced, and used 1 1/2 oz total in a pound of wax. It smells wonderful but I think it's a little light. I would prefer it stronger but 'Great Pumpkin' seemed light when I've used it in the past too. Or do you think this could be one of those cases where reducing the FO amount might actually lead to a stronger scent throw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherley77 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Hello,I am new to this forum. I am in the search for a new wax blend that I can buy on the east coast. I currently use a 60/40, soy being the greater. I live in Ga and I am trying to find a wax comparable to the one I use. I love this wax but just can't afford the shipping from California. I see people are using this 70/30 blend but I only found one supplier, and he doesn't offer any bulk discounts. I wanted to see if people were happy with this wax, is it consistent, and where else to order it from? Any ideas will greatly be appreciated. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 The Clarus 70/30 wax goes by whatever name the supplier gives it (TN 70/30) and I don't know specifically who else carries this wax. Brad Ford is a rep who is very helpful and might be able to give you more information. I love this wax and have found it to be very consistent over the years. There are occasional bad batches but they are usually when soy crops are poor. I'm afraid the day of price breaks on bulk is drawing to a close. You start talking pallet prices and you will have to go to Clarus would be my opinion. HTH. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherley77 Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hi Steve,Thank you so much for the info. I called and left a message. I am excited to try this wax. It is definitely closer to me. I use the same blend from another manufacturer but all the way on the west coast and their prices keep rising and rising. Thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherley77 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Hello,I called the supplier, Claurus and he told me the 70/30 blend is 70 pariffin and 30 soy. He said he doesn't know why people get that turned around. I told him the website that is advertising it as 70 soy. He told me he is going to make sure that he is not telling me wrong and get back with me sometime today. If this is true, Alot of people have been mislead on this wax. Hopefully he just has things turned around..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Ford Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Let me help with a clarification...We offer 2 soy blend waxes:3020 - is approx. 70% petroleum based - this is our version we use to complete with 6006 and products like that3022 - is approx 70% veggie based - which is what is being discussed here.I can see where it can get confusing - as the ratios are the same - the materials are flipped.Hope that helps...Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherley77 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Thank you Brad for the info. Can't wait to start trying this wax asap. Thanks Steve for all your input. Can't wait to start testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWV Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 I have used this wax for years and find that cd wicks work the best for me. I heat the wax to 190 degrees and then add dye and fo and pour at 185. I pour into warmed jars and place in a covered box for a slow cooling. I rarely get wet spots and most fos are strong from day one. This is a great wax IMHO. I use a cd 18 in a 12 oz and 16 oz straight sided jar (Salsa). The majority of fos do just fine at 6%. You can add 1/2 to 1 tsp of coconut oil to enhance throw (some use more than that) but with this year's soy it hasn't been necessary. HTH.SteveThis is probably a dumb question, but is the coconut oil the liquid or the solid one? Thanks:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) I see Brad cleared things up. The coconut is the solid stuff you get at Walmart. HTHSteve Edited July 2, 2010 by chuck_35550 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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