JanetsCandles Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Since reading the stuff in the forums on this wax, I decided to try it out, got some from Lonestar Candle Supply this week. Just got it unpacked and while I realized that it would be soft, I didn't realize it would be quite this soft. Do you guys have a suggestion on how to get the wax out of the bags without a lot of waste? I'm working on testing starting tomorrow hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluper7297 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I have not tried that blend yet, although it is on my list, but maybe if you put it in the freezer for a few minutes and let it get cold before you take it out of the bags and then transfer it to a different container for later use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertgibbens Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Comfort Blend is indeed soft! What I did to get the stuff out of the bag was to buy some disposable rubber gloves and just hand scoop it out. After trying to use a large measuring cup which did not work too well, I found the hand method pretty easy.Let me know if your able to burn this wax without a chimney of smoke which I got with all the scents at different loads. I switched to 4630 and no smoking at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Comfort Blend is indeed soft! What I did to get the stuff out of the bag was to buy some disposable rubber gloves and just hand scoop it out. After trying to use a large measuring cup which did not work too well, I found the hand method pretty easy.Let me know if your able to burn this wax without a chimney of smoke which I got with all the scents at different loads. I switched to 4630 and no smoking at all.Interesting. I've read the opposite: no smoke with 4627 using the correct size zinks or HTPs, but lots of smoke using 4630, and I don't remember the wicks used by those who complained of smoke. I'm going to start using 4627 next. I like the tip of dumping the whole 25 lb bag into a turkey roaster. That seems like the best way to go for anyone who produces a high enough volume of candles. What I'd like to know is, can you melt it and then cool it until it hardens, store it in a sealed container, & then remelt it again multiple times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetsCandles Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 I'm not sure if you could remelt multiple times, I'm also unsure about freezing the stuff, I know some oils don't react well to freezing and I'm flat not sure what they do to this wax to make it so soft. For sure it's not just straight paraffin, I'm betting some additives are involved. One problem is that I'm still in the testing phase, so not wanting to make a full batch of candles until I get my wick and scent levels figured out. So thinking I'll keep it in the bag except for using the small amounts at a time. I may freeze the bag when it has a little left over to see if there's a problem and if it makes removal easier. But I'll be testing the remelt thing too and will post the results of that as well, if no one else already knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maggie Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Sliver of Wax that posts here uses CB. She uses a big putty knife to slice it. Maybe she will see this and tell you exactly what she does. I have used it and I used a BIG metal spatula and didn't have any problems getting it out of the bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SliverOfWax Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) Yes, Maggie. A large butcher knife or putty knife works great. If your melter is big enough, you can dump the whole bag, plastic and all, into your melter and the plastic cover will float around once the wax is melted. Just pull it out and toss it.It's not at all difficult to work with if kept at room temperature. Slice and dice right through the plastic if you're melting smaller amounts than the full 25 lb block. I've never used gloves or spoons. Good grief! What a stinking mess that would be.I wouldn't put it in the freezer. It could absorb moisture. Edited June 19, 2011 by SliverOfWax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ring of Fire Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Get it out of that plastic when it is warm enough and super easy to slice with the putty knife and put it in a big bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debratant Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I cut mine up bag and all and store it in rubbermaid containers. Because I have bad wrists...I let my knife sit under scalding hot water from the sink...dry it, then slice...repeat repeat. Slices like butter this way. LOVE this wax...and no smoking for me either using HTP wicks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluper7297 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 So for those of you that use it, can you melt, let it harden then remelt it multiple times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debratant Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I have some in my presto that gets melted, hardened then remelted multiple times. I don't notice any ill effects at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SliverOfWax Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I've remelted, too. I wouldn't have a clue how many times, but if I'm pouring a large bunch of testers, several times, I'm sure.I think it's the wick that's smoking, not the comfort blend. I've used HTP wicks for years. Recently, I got the bright idea to try LX. They were hideous smokers. If I wicked down enough to eliminate smoke, I got very little scent and struggled to get fmp. So I got the LX out of my system and went straight back to HTP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbaranj Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I have some in my presto that gets melted, hardened then remelted multiple times. I don't notice any ill effects at all. Same here........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I've remelted, too. I wouldn't have a clue how many times, but if I'm pouring a large bunch of testers, several times, I'm sure.I think it's the wick that's smoking, not the comfort blend. I've used HTP wicks for years. Recently, I got the bright idea to try LX. They were hideous smokers. If I wicked down enough to eliminate smoke, I got very little scent and struggled to get fmp. So I got the LX out of my system and went straight back to HTP.Thanks, Sliver! I'm leaning towards trying the HTP wicks instead of zinc when I get my 4627. I'd like to order HTP wicks from Peaks because they're primed with 212 degree wax so they won't flop in a 180 degree melt pool, but Peaks uses only 6 mm high wick assemblies instead of the 10 mm high assemblies I could by from Lone Star, who only uses 180 degree wax to prime their wicks; so do you think 6 mm high is high enough for safety with 4627? Or does it get super hot during the last 1/2" of wax, like gel, & need a 10 mm high? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlepieces Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hello everyone, new to this site. Everybody is so knowledgeable. I have used 4627 and it is indeed very soft. I no longer use because it is because it was hard for me to wick and too messy to work with. But to make it easier for u to work with. Use a large metal spoon. take the time out to weight 1 lb and place in ziplock back. You can do a few a day. So it want consume all your time. Or u could 2 lbs what ever is best for u. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetsCandles Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 I've been testing for the last 2 days now. 6% FO and using zinc wicks, so far no major problems, no smoking. I ended up re wicking a 1 oz container that I'd done because the burn wasn't working quite right, but after doing that, no smoke, beautiful combustion and absolutely no problems otherwise. I'm having a friend test the scent throw at this level because my allergies have been acting up and I can't smell anything! :rolleyes2 I'll probably test a higher FO concentration this week as well to make sure it won't precipitate out.Using the putty knife method for cutting, but I think I may go and get a palate knife or an icing spatula instead. A longer blade would be useful. The stuff reminds me so much of vaseline, makes me wonder if it's just a very similar process for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jluper7297 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I got my order from Peak in today. I ordered some 4630A and this is really soft! I'm excited to start playing with it and testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SliverOfWax Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks, Sliver! I'm leaning towards trying the HTP wicks instead of zinc when I get my 4627. I'd like to order HTP wicks from Peaks because they're primed with 212 degree wax so they won't flop in a 180 degree melt pool, but Peaks uses only 6 mm high wick assemblies instead of the 10 mm high assemblies I could by from Lone Star, who only uses 180 degree wax to prime their wicks; so do you think 6 mm high is high enough for safety with 4627? Or does it get super hot during the last 1/2" of wax, like gel, & need a 10 mm high? I get my wicks here:http://www.candlewic.com/store/WickBuilder.aspx?title=Custom%20Candle%20Wick%20BuilderI use 3 mm necks. I don't want my customers complaining that my candles leave a lot of wax like store candles. 10 mm? No way. Unless you use very tall jars, that's way too much left over. I use primarily 8 oz masons, but also use 3 mm necks in 8 oz tins. I use 3 mm necks on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SliverOfWax Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hello everyone, new to this site. Everybody is so knowledgeable. I have used 4627 and it is indeed very soft. I no longer use because it is because it was hard for me to wick and too messy to work with. But to make it easier for u to work with. Use a large metal spoon. take the time out to weight 1 lb and place in ziplock back. You can do a few a day. So it want consume all your time. Or u could 2 lbs what ever is best for u. I would quit candle making if I went to that much trouble.Why on earth are you storing in something other than what it already comes in? It comes wrapped in plastic (Laura Palmer). Why move it from plastic to plastic? Makes no sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camay Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I would quit candle making if I went to that much trouble.Why on earth are you storing in something other than what it already comes in? It comes wrapped in plastic (Laura Palmer). Why move it from plastic to plastic? Makes no sense to me.I agree. Seems like twice the work, and more annoying plastic to stick to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) I get my wicks here:http://www.candlewic.com/store/WickBuilder.aspx?title=Custom%20Candle%20Wick%20BuilderI use 3 mm necks. I don't want my customers complaining that my candles leave a lot of wax like store candles. 10 mm? No way. Unless you use very tall jars, that's way too much left over. I use primarily 8 oz masons, but also use 3 mm necks in 8 oz tins. I use 3 mm necks on everything.Thanks so much, Sliver! I was afraid that if I used 3 mm necks the last bit of wax would overheat & flash or crack/shatter the jar. I've been worried about wick assembly neck height ever since I read this old thread that bugtussle posted when one of her customers complained that her 6 oz tin had caught fire, & others posted they'd had the same experience: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-58960.html Edited June 23, 2011 by HorsescentS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 My candles leave a good half inch at the bottom and that hasn't been any problem for sales. I tell my customers to expect leftover wax because of the safety issue. That last bit of wax is pretty foul anyway but some of my customers tell me they put the jar on a warmer to get the last bit. I don't recommend that either but that's their choice and not mine. I have never had a complaint about a fiery candle and hope I never will. HTHSteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 My candles leave a good half inch at the bottom and that hasn't been any problem for sales. I tell my customers to expect leftover wax because of the safety issue. That last bit of wax is pretty foul anyway but some of my customers tell me they put the jar on a warmer to get the last bit. I don't recommend that either but that's their choice and not mine. I have never had a complaint about a fiery candle and hope I never will. HTHSteveThanks, Steve. I think I'll do it the way you're doing it. Are you using the 10 mm neck heights? I think 6 mm should be high enough in the tureen & the square mason that have a convex bottom which is higher in the middle. But I'll still check the temperature of the last bit of wax to make sure it's not above 180 degrees. I'm glad you mentioned the safety of putting the last bit of wax on the warmer because I've been wondering about that too. I saw a chandler on Etsy who tells her customers to put the jar in the freezer for 10 minutes & then pop the last bit of wax out & put it in their tart melter. That seems safer than putting the candle on the warmer. But I didn't mean to highjack the thread and make it about wick neck height, I wondered if the 4627 burns real hot when it gets to the bottom. I'll find out soon when I make candles with it anyway. Thanks everyone who weighed in on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlepieces Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 4627 users. I had gave up on 4627 could not wick, could not get a good ht. Pulled a candle out of closet last night and stuck a htp 105 in. The ht was so good. sage and pomergrante I think i am falling in love with this wax again. The 105 flame was too big so i tried 104 htp. It flicker,fluttered and smoked a little bit and not a good ht. Trying a lx 20 now. can some give me some suggestions please. Delighted. I made these candles a month ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetsCandles Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 I'm using zinc core wicks, so far no problems. They do mushroom if you forget to trim them down though. But think I need to increase my FO content. Using 6% for this batch (start low, work up). Not bad on throw, just not as good as I'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.