Help increasing HT w/ 4627

[dsipp138]

I've been doing a lot of reading and testing these last 6 months and finally put out some testers to family to get feedback. I made some jars, tarts, votive, smelly Jellies, & Pillars. I need advice on everything of course but I’ll start with the jars first.

I sent a survey and I asked if they were strong, fair, faint, none. All came back in the fair to faint. Everyone that came back also said I needed to add more fragrance to the candles.

To them it seems that I didn't add enough but I’m sure it must be something with the wick or my process. Maybe too much FO is burning off because I’m adding the FO in the wax at 195 and mixing with a stick blender and pouring at 180, or maybe the wick is too hot and burning it off. My tarts did very well with the FO's in EcoSoya PB so I doubt its bad FO's that are causing the problem. (Although i'll take advice on that as well.)

I did not test these before sending them out because I only have sample size FO's. In most of my other candles I have made them with the Eco's because was recommended by CS wick guide. I am getting more soot buildup on the jar than I would like though. I noticed most people here suggests the HTP wicks with the wax so i'm going to try that direction as well. I do appreciate your responses.

Wax: 4627

Jar: 2.6" Diameter

FO load: 10%

Poured: 180 Degrees

Wick: Eco-6

---FO List---

Candle Makers Store - Black raspberry Vanilla

Wellington - Coco-Mango

Cajun - Mulberry Madness

BC - Hawaiian Paradise

BC - Sex on the Beach

CandleWic - Strawberry & Champagne

[rjwhite6]

sent you a pm. Hope it helps.

[SliverOfWax]

You really must test these yourself. There's no way you can expect correct feedback from people who don't have a clue what you're doing and probably think department store or Y candles are great.

[dsipp138]

I do agree, and I should have tested them first before sending them out. I knew someone was going to spank me for that. LOL

I was just trying to get some prospective on what a customer would think. I've made over 50 testers and so far only 3 stand out. I'm going to be changing some things and doing some more testing. Burning a tester I made last night.

[Candybee]

4627 was designed for a superior hot throw. You mentioned using 10% FO load. That may be your problem. Try backing off the high load and start out with 6%. Many new chandlers make the mistake of thinking more FO will make the candles stronger so they load up. This can tax your wick and cause an incomplete combustion that can result in poor hot throw. So start out with the standard 6%. You can always make adjustments and add more for those FOs that are light in throw. Never use more FO than you need so learn to use the minimum that works.

Also, Ecos may not be the best choice for your wax. Personally I would have started out testing with HTPs as they were designed for viscous waxes such as yours. I would also test with LX, CD, and Zincs. When I first test out a wax I try out several series of wicks. Once I figure out the right wick for my wax then I fine tune my testing for the right size wick for my jars.

Sliver is right. Always do your own testing. I never let others test candle fragrances until I have my candle tested first. Once I have my right wax, wick, FOs, additives, jars, etc. tested out I may let others market test various scents for their opinion of it. But all candle materials and safety tests are done by myself. Period.

Edited August 14, 2011 by Candybee

[coconut]

I have to agree. After lots of testing, I stick with 6% or even go down to 4.5%. I don't use 4627 but do use 4630 and find that one wax is not always right for all FO's. Therefore I also use J50, especially for my heavy FO's. 4630 (and probably 4627) tends to be a smoker due to the high oil content. (I was told this on this board). I have had really good luck using Premier wicks. Less smoking and less mushrooming, even though this wick is designed for soy, it works great in paraffin. Your mixing temp does seem a bit high as well. One thing to try: make a candle without a wick and put it on a warmer (don't do this with large or tall candles). See how the throw is. You may have the bad luck of buying lots of FOs with light throw! Most of Peak's oils have good throw and Candlescience has a throw rating on their oils. Be sure you have good strong oils. HTH

[chuck_35550]

A stick blender? I have to admit that once I tried mixing with a hand mixer for improved ct/ht and quickly gave that up. A couple of minutes with a slotted spoon at about 190 and pour at about 185 or 180 with about 7% of a quality fo should give you a fairly decent candle. Wick? Test lx, zincs or premiers...ect. You didn't burn off your fo you just overloaded the system. Bring it down a few notches and you should be pleased. IMHO

Steve

[dsipp138]

What wax do you find works best with fruity scents?

[Karen M]

I would think the wax you are using would work for fruity scents. It is designed for hot throw.

[Candybee]

I'd nix the idea of using any kind of a blender; hand mixer, stick blender, etc., to blend your wax. Last thing you want to do is create air bubbles in your wax. I use wooden spoons. Another great stirrer are those paint stirring sticks you get for free at the paint store.

Edited August 20, 2011 by Candybee

[HorseScentS]

I'd nix the idea of using any kind of a blender; hand mixer, stick blender, etc., to blend your wax. Last thing you want to do is create air bubbles in your wax. I use wooden spoons. Another great stirrer are those paint stirring sticks you get for free at the paint store.

Do the wooden spoons absorb the FO or dye? I use a whisk, but I keep it in the 170 degree oven sitting in an aluminum baking pan when I'm not stirring with it. I also have a big commercial kitchen slotted spoon I've been thinking of trying, but I'd have to heat it up too or it would lower the temperature of the wax if I stick it in there cold. I'm wondering about whisk vs. slotted spoon lately.

[debratant]

I have a long plastic spoon that I got from the dollar store, looks like a wooden spoon. I wipe it down right after stirring and have never had an issue with it absorbing the fo or the dye.